Hi all,

I have 2 hard drives which have the same problem: they are recognize in the bios as capacity 0. I've tried alot of recovery software, to connect the hard drives to other computer, to try and fix the mbr but nothing with success

after a deep research on the internet I got a conclusion which the problem related to the lba of the disk.
How do I fix that problem and put out my data? How to update/renew the hard drive's lba?
Thank you very much!

It would definitely help, if you were kind enough as to tell us what harddrives you have that show this very problem. ;) My guess would be that those are Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 drives. But let us know some details. I have 3 hard drives with the same problem. 2 of them are seagate's Barracuda 7200.11 750 GB and 500 GB and the theard one is Western Digital's 320 GB.

I've tried to use MHDD in order to erase the mbr (CLRMBR) and I get the system error: "This drive does not support LBA mode or not detected" I've tried also NHPA which recover the factory size and it doesn't work (probably bacuse the LBA problem). How do I recover the LBA of those hard drives? Is there any tool or software for that? Thank You Very Much!!

New subject: Re: Capacity 0 in the bios
TheSlider wrote: I've tried to use MHDD in order to erase the mbr (CLRMBR) and I get the system error: "This drive does not support LBA mode or not detected"
Is there any tool or software for that?
you want DIY solution? Is data important?

New subject: Re: Capacity 0 in the bios
Hi, What is DIY solution? Yes, it's important data but I can't aford myself to pay alot off money to recovery company. Besides, I want to learn the subject of Data recovery.

New subject: Re: Capacity 0 in the bios
"Do it your self" that means, and has consequences if u has value data inside Regards HeadCrash

New subject: Re: Capacity 0 in the bios
no comment.
hddguy

New subject: Re: Capacity 0 in the bios
TheSlider wrote: Hi,
What is DIY solution? The fastest way to ensure loss of important data. Seriously, if data is important consult a professional who can give you an exact failure report, and a quote for the recovery of your data. As all 3 drives are failed, presumably from the same system, you may have an electrical or mechanical failure but this is just a guess, an accurate indication of the problem is impossible without proper analysis.

TheSlider
New subject: Re: Capacity 0 in the bios
beto wrote: "Do it your self" that means, and has consequences if u has value data inside Regards
Ok, this is a value data but more value for me is to learn how to recover it. I have in somewhere backup of all the data so it's just a practice for me (and a good one). The 3 hard drives each one from a different computer and a different house, so I don't have any electrical problem with my computer.

The biggest question is how do I fix the "LBA mode"/LBA problem of the disk?! It's all the time shows me that the hard drive is a 0 capacity and it drives me nuts :| Thank you very much for any help!

MadOCer
New subject: Re: Capacity 0 in the bios

If you really insist on a DIY solution then you should also be able to find the solution (or let's say a detailed description) for 2 of your 3 problem cases online.
That doesn't mean that it will work per se, without a doubt. There will always be a risk. TheSlider
New subject: Re: Capacity 0 in the bios

MadOCer wrote: If you really insist on a DIY solution then you should also be able to find the solution (or let's say a detailed description) for 2 of your 3 problem cases online.
That doesn't mean that it will work per se, without a doubt. There will always be a risk. haha tanks :lol: but I still didn't find any way or solution to how to recover the LBA :? Is there any software or somthing that can do that for me? poehere

New subject: Re: Capacity 0 in the bios
Search Seagate 0 LBA problem. Plenty here on the forum you should find your answer to this one. Iorana Haraharaini MadOCer

New subject: Re: Capacity 0 in the bios
Infact this problem is known all over the web, due to the numerous failures on these Seagate drives. You can also try a search for Seagate and "BSY" or "BUSY". Should give you plenty of results to look through.
hddguy

New subject: Re: Capacity 0 in the bios
This is assuming the seagates have this fault, which they may not. The WD drive also reports BSY only. Maybe they all share similar problem not associated with common failures. Before attempting anything, the correct diagnostic must be known... MadOCer

New subject: Re: Capacity 0 in the bios
hddguy wrote: ... Before attempting anything, the correct diagnostic must be known...
With all due respect: The correct disgnosis should be known. If, as he said, the data is not that valueable to him, he should try to diagnose the error as good as possible as a layman, with all the help possible. That means he should indeed read the desciptions and howtos first, bsides asking questions here. He'll need some info anyway. And after getting some info (not necessarily only here) it's upto him to judge the situation and decide what to do and how to prioritize:

Is it more important to get the data back, or is it more important to save money? ;) AND of course: Can I accomplish what I'm trying to do?
unknown20010

New subject: Re: Capacity 0 in the bios
"HeadCrash" : you are right. No Comment
Any intelligent fool can make things bigger, more complex, and more violent. It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction.
guru

New subject: Re: Capacity 0 in the bios
spoon feeding.............. Knowledge is of no value unless you put it into practice. ~ Anton Chekov pangbeauty

New subject: Re: Capacity 0 in the bios
Maybe you can find a proper software product from our company. key feature:HYDATA 7200.11 Firmware Repair software is designed to repair firmware failures occurring system halted, instant loss and drive unrecognized in BIOS, and mainly focusing on Seagate Barracuda 7200.11, BarracudaES.2, Maxtor Diamond Max22, etc.

Hi,
Can someone write me whether there is the difference between the constant clicking (without spin down) and few clicks with spin down. Damaged preamp prevent spin down of disk after clicking? or it does not affect?
What's really possible to determine from by clicking sound?
Regards,
Krzysztof
Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 ST 31000528AS 1TB CC35 clicking lasts 16 seconds (11 clicks) and always ended spin down capitalization below to my previous New.
Thanks, david

besonen wrote: I did start doing some more playing around with AHCI today. It seems as though to some extent I can switch between AHCI and ATA-compatible mode at will. And not suffer any nasty consequences--assuming that I don't perform any write operations.
Can I get confirmation that this is true. That simply switching between AHCI and ATA mode in the bios is always non-destructive?
Also, one of the more common current scenarios that I encounter is cleaning up brand new Dell desktops. Desktops that are set to AHCI by default and that have Windows XP Pro installed. In the past I would quickly shrink (and typically convert from NTFS to FAT32) the single large partition that Dell setup and then go on to create additional logical partitions. Does anyone know if there is(are) any tool(s) that will perform these functions non-destructively? All the partition shrinking/converting tools I've tried so far seem to choke on the AHCI setting.
Thanks, david
Seagate ST3500820AS SATA, wont spin, but buzzes Hi, I was googling around and I know that its a problematic drive, the Seagate ST3500820AS. Mine comes from LACIE external But this is rare issue: When I power it on, it repeatedly buzzes silently in about two second intervals, the spindle motor makes this buzzing as the spindle controller tried to spin it up. The PCB is fine, I checked the power diodes, all are fine, and SMOOTH controller looks fine since I see that voltages are jumping on the 3-pin connector to spindle motor. The drive has not been dropped heavily or abused in any way. It just stopped working. What I can think of is that heads are not parked and preventing the spindle from spinning the drive. Or is this seized motor? How do I find this out? If I go out in fresh winter day far away from any dust sources and quickly open it only to check the position of heads - is it going to create any damage to the surfaces? I have red about some older HDDs that it was possible to un-stuck the heads from surface by rapidly rotating the HDD itself in both directions making spindle to move by force of inertia, but on this one it does not work. Please tell me what to do with this drive. Thanks! spindle seizure, send it to a pro _________________ ?????? ????, ????? dont open it, and if this data is something to care about - do send it to a pro. even if the heads just got stuck to the platters - there is a very small chance you will get it fixed by yourself. It's a very simple case for a PRO, with a reasonable price. but you may crash the heads and make scratches on the platters if you do it yourself. And the price will be double or higher. _________________ Any intelligent fool can make things bigger, more complex, and more violent. It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction. unknown20010 wrote: It's a very simple case for a PRO ??? :roll: _________________ ?????? ????, ????? Not simple :oops: You have to rotate the spindle motor carefully and release the heads then move them to the head's park, power on then everything will be ok. I think it's not a special case for a pro, Andrew ? _________________ Any intelligent fool can make things bigger, more complex, and more violent. It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction. Take it to a pro. If you are a chemist, it is simple to make Nitro Glycerine, if you are not a chemist and you get it wrong you end up with no house. This wont matter as it will probably kill you. What is simple to one who knows can be the disaster for those that dont. _________________ I dont need a gun, I've got a Donk http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CwpZFsVyues But what will PRO do to that HDD? If the spindle motor has been seized then you need to swap a motor, this, indeed, can be done only in the lab with special tools (cylinder to remove all platters ar once etc..) but if thats the case of heads left on the surface then what PRO will do is get them off the surface and move to parking position. Now I dont know how many heads / platters this drive has, I asume two heads, one platter, so it should not be too hard to slightly pull the arm holding the head away from the surface to release it and then slowly let it land back to the surface. Or even insert appropriate spacer between the arms that keeps the heads slightly off the surface and move them away to parking position. But first I have to check if the heads are on the surface or not. A pro will have a special tool to remove heads from platters. Different pros have different tools. flashcoder wrote: But what will PRO do to that HDD? If the spindle motor has been seized then you need to swap a motor, this, indeed, can be done only in the lab with special tools (cylinder to remove all platters ar once etc..) but if thats the case of heads left on the surface then what PRO will do is get them off the surface and move to parking position. Now I dont know how many heads / platters this drive has, I asume two heads, one platter, so it should not be too hard to slightly pull the arm holding the head away from the surface to release it and then slowly let it land back to the surface. Or even insert appropriate spacer between the arms that keeps the heads slightly off the surface and move them away to parking position. But first I have to check if the heads are on the surface or not. If non of those advices are good for you, then you might as well hit your drive hard enough to release a spindle, it will get you same results as if you do every thing described above. Result will be - data is unrecoverable. _________________ Don't gamble with your data! 2 platters, 4 heads. well, if heads are stuck to the surface, and the spindle is fine, the case is relatively simple, but can go wrong if not done properly. However I thing the problem is not that heads are stuck, but that the spindle is seized, which is a far more complicated thing. without experience and tools it is quite like Donk mentioned. ===================================================================== Corrupt filestructure Hi, I hope anyone can help me with my problem.. When starting up the computer, the power suddenly got cut off in the whole street. When we had electricity again, I noticed the filestructure of my main HDD was corrupted so I had to do a format and re-install of windows. The sad thing is that my second HDD (FAT 32), where all my backups are located, also suffers from a damaged file system. Most of the data (70%) is perfect accessible though, but some files and folders are now showing as unknown files with the size of 64kb. Windows checkdisk couldn't solve the problem. I also tried the program "Recover my Files, V4.4", but that wasn't a success neither. I hope anybody over here can help me out. _________________ http://www.bertbeckers.be Good Day Try with Magic Recovery it recover data with file structure. You even made is worse than it was before. CHKDSK is a killer programe in such cases. Who the hack told you to do that (sorry) ? And - do NOT install any new progrome into this (defect) system: - Take your hard disk out of pc - make a sector-by sector clone onto another hard disk (if that is possible for you) - put the clone (or original if no other way) into different 2nd pc - install programe(s) to surch for lost data(structure) into 2nd pc If you are in any way unsecure how and what to do - look for a pro ======================================================================= WD2500JB PATA, fried SMOOTH L6283 1.3 Hi! Got my hands on a dead WD2500JB PATA drive, its obvious that the spindle controller SMOOTH L6283 1.3 has died in horrible death. Question is - why? I dont know the history of this drive, received it inside a computer which I bought on cheap sale. I checked the big diodes in power circuity - those seem fine. But the Q8 component also is dead, its even visible a bit. And I dont know the part code since the surface is damaged. Anyone knows whats the Q8 is? What you would suggest to check as well? And is there anyone who knows where (or could himself) sell me the SMOOTH L6283 1.3? I will replace it no problem, got access to SMD rework heat gun. ========================================================================== verbatim (western digital) 1TB ext drive not powering up hi guys in semi response to my last thread of tears and joy, external-harddrive-repair-t13795.html i have a verbatim 1TB external drive which was accidentally plugged into a 19v power supply. because of this it no longer powers up. i fixed the same problem with my last external drive (see above) but it was made easy because of the obvious tvs chip that had popped. I cant see anything out of the ordinary on this hdd board (1TB one) indeed i cant seem to locate a tvs chip anywhere. do sata boards have one..? as this ex drive has two circuit boards, i presume that the small one is the usb to sata controller. is it possible that it is this smaller board that has become burned out..? as its first in the line of fire.. what makes it slightly awkward is that i do not have access to a sata controlled motherboard....bummer. i gave it to a friend of mine who said he put the drive in his 'cradle' at work and nothing happened. do you have to remove the usb to sata board before you do this.? is it possible that a replacement small board will be successful or should i just get a replacement main board.???? anyone....? thanks alot in advance hope everyone had a groovy christmas... heres some pics and spec.. 1.0tb sata / 8mb cache wd10eavs s/n wcau43913866 mdl : wd10eavs - 00d7b1 wwn:50014ee202265ab0 date:25 oct 08 dcm:darnnt2cfb lba:1953525168 product of thailand ooo apparently its a wd caviar "green"...hmm ??? circuit boards small one 4d714e77 main board 2061-701590-a0005p xc 7c125e5g r 0006170 9176 Attachments: IMG_0128.jpg IMG_0128.jpg [ 1.26 MiB | Viewed 448 times ] IMG_0131.jpg IMG_0131.jpg [ 1.28 MiB | Viewed 448 times ] The small PCB is the USB-SATA bridge board. It should be OK. You need to remove the PCB from the hard drive. The TVS diodes will be near the power connector. Does your board look like this one? http://cd.beareyes.com.cn/2/lib/200809/ ... C_4914.jpg very nearly, heres a pic of mine. sorry about quality. i can see the two tvs you mention r64 and r67 would the same remedies/tests still apply..? also there is a fair bit of brown staining around the screw holes and on the board to hd contact strip. is this normal. ? thanks Attachments: IMG_0132.jpg IMG_0132.jpg [ 1.25 MiB | Viewed 432 times ] hi, you should send it to DR pro if you can't handle it. _________________ provide entire dirve,PCB,firmware,hard disk accessories. talk to me! Data Recovery service sunnydreamspace@hotmail.com cheers for advice, i know this and your right, however i am a, skint. b, fairly capable of small soldering jobs. simon75 wrote: i can see the two tvs you mention r64 and r67 would the same remedies/tests still apply..? also there is a fair bit of brown staining around the screw holes and on the board to hd contact strip. is this normal. ? thanks (R)64 and (R)67 are (R)esistors. (D)4 and (D)3 are the TVS (D)iodes. The (D)iodes are made easier to identify by the diode symbol, |>|. (D)4 appears to be the 12V TVS (D)iode. (R)64 appears to be a zero-ohm link. This link may fuse when the (D)iode fails. If you can use a multimeter, measure the resistances of the Rs and Ds on the 200 ohm scale. If the D reads 0, then remove it. If the R reads open (overrange), then bridge it with a wire or 2 amp picofuse. As for the discolouration, use a soft white pencil eraser to carefully clean the oxide off the pads. Is it me or are Western Digitals the worst when it comes to oxidation? Thinking back, I can't remember seeing one that wasn't badly oxidized. WOW :D thanks a load fzabkar. i shall do this. funny enough i'm actually really looking forward to this...i like fixing things !!! ill New all results and pics. are western dig the hardest/most problematic hd's to work on/ remedy.. or are they all the same..?? simon hi i've checked the resistance of the two diodes and low and behold d4 read 0. i removed it carefully. i measured the other diode d3 and it showed a small resistance 35ohms. the two small 0 ohm links were exactly that and fine. i measured the voltage drop across d3 and it was .427v so i reckon that it is fine. with everything back in place i tried powering up. NOTHING. i removed the usb to sata board and tried that on its own and the green on light didn't come on. I'm thinking there may be something up with this board.. does anyone know how to check this board for problems.. ? any advice...? there is also a diode on this board d3. indicated in the picture. is it possible that this should be removed aswell..? im also going to have try the hd in a sata tower...but i dont have one.. :( For now i retire to my chair and reach for a chocolate biscuit..... Attachments: IMG_0165.jpg IMG_0165.jpg [ 1.2 MiB | Viewed 327 times ] IMG_0164.jpg IMG_0164.jpg [ 1.23 MiB | Viewed 327 times ] IMG_0163.jpg IMG_0163.jpg [ 1.25 MiB | Viewed 327 times ] oh i also saw this which mentions the part number and code for the usb controller and also it relates to the same external hd... anyone speak really good french...???? http://www.commentcamarche.net/forum/af ... atim-47510 You need to get a SATA hookup of some sort, otherwise you're still shooting in the dark _________________ You don't have to backup all of your data, just the data you want to keep. Don't remove D3 on the bridge board. Unfortunately not every problem can be fixed with a simple diode-ectomy. :-( Otherwise, enjoy your biscuit. You've done well so far. :-) In the absence of a SATA motherboard, there are still some things you can do. (1) Confirm that your adapter is producing 12VDC, with no load connected. (2) Confirm that there is no short present at the DC socket on the bridge board. (3) With the adapter plugged in, and HD disconnected, confirm that 12V is present at the DC socket. (4) Check that +12V and +5V are present at the SATA connector. Here are the pinouts: http://pinouts.ru/Power/sata-power_pinout.shtml (5) Confirm that the resistance at the pads of D4 on the HD PCB is not 0. (6) Repeat 3 & 4 with HD connected. (7) Compare the polarities of your 12V and 19V adapters. If you have reversed the polarities, then there may be more damage than a straight overvoltage. Just one more thought. Is it possible that your drive powers up in standby (PUIS), in which case the USB-SATA bridge chip may need to see a USB host before it commands the drive to spin up? Dude......you are a legend.! I'll check all of this later. It all makes huge sense. :D hi, so here's the results.. (1) Confirm that your adapter is producing 12VDC, with no load connected. confirmed (2) Confirm that there is no short present at the DC socket on the bridge board. confirmed (3) With the adapter plugged in, and HD disconnected, confirm that 12V is present at the DC socket. confirmed (4) Check that +12V and +5V are present at the SATA connector. Here are the pinouts: http://pinouts.ru/Power/sata-power_pinout.shtml i can confirm all three 12v pins have 12v to them. however there is nothing on the 3.3v and 5v pins..[color=#4000FF] (5) Confirm that the resistance at the pads of D4 on the HD PCB is not 0. [color=#4000FF]i can confirm the resistance is not 0, it is 40ohms, as a test the res across d3 is 35ohms (6) Repeat 3 & 4 with HD connected. i can confirm the dc socket and all three 12v pins have 12v to them. however there is still nothing on the 3.3v and 5v pins..[color=#4000FF] (7) Compare the polarities of your 12V and 19V adapters. If you have reversed the polarities, then there may be more damage than a straight overvoltage. [color=#4000FF]i have compared the two and the both have the same polarities. so i'm guessing this means there's something wrong with the usb sata bridge..???? i am in desperate need now of some storage and so i'm getting another ext hd. would it be wise now to get another one of these drives. its a verbatim 1tb ext. are they any good..? and would it mean that i could try out the usb bridge from this unit to fire up the other one...?????? is this usb bridge available to buy separately and would it be plug and play...????? thanks again.. simon simon75 wrote: (4) Check that +12V and +5V are present at the SATA connector. [color=#4000FF]i can confirm all three 12v pins have 12v to them. however there is nothing on the 3.3v and 5v pins..[color=#4000FF] AFAIK, the 3.3V supply is currently not used by any HD manufacturer. I suspect that the bridge chip switches 5V and 12V power to the HD only when it is connected to a computer's USB port. Did you measure the two voltages after connecting the USB cable to your PC? The presence of 12V and absence of 5V would suggest that the 12V switching device (eg transistor or IC) is shorted, possibly as a consequence of the short circuit current that flowed when the TVS diode failed. I can't tell from your photos, but I suspect that U5 may be a dual high-side power switch. You can interrogate the USB-SATA bridge chip with Microsoft's UVCView utility: http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/USB_ID ... ew.x86.exe Do this with the AC adapter disconnected. Then repeat it with the adapter connected. This will tell you whether the bridge is working, and whether it is powered from the USB port or from the adapter. Be aware that this test may be inconclusive, as some bridges won't identify themselves unless they detect a HD. The circuitry near the USB and DC power sockets comprises a switchmode power supply that converts the incoming 12V to 5V. If you carefully measure the voltages of each of the 4 electrolytic capacitors on the underside of the PCB, this will tell you whether the 5V supply is functioning. Be careful, though, as a slip with the probes may do more damage. hi fzabkar, did the voltage check with the board plugged into the usb and got nothing. i tried out the adapter with the usb plugged in and the device viewer running and it didn't detect anything. i tried the caps and one of them showed 12v the other three had nothing. i checked the device viewer worked with my phone and it showed up (as a control). so i guess that this shows that u5 is short circuited..? i've Newed a pic. can it be fixed/swapped..? can i send it to a team to do as i'm not confident about a chip removal..? (also i don't have a heat gun just a micro iron which i don't reckon will be worth the try) how much would something like this cost to do..? OR will the board from my new external h/d work as a donor..? cheers mate. simon Attachments: IMG_0177.jpg IMG_0177.jpg [ 1.4 MiB | Viewed 235 times ] If you shop around you could probably get this fully recovered for £100 - £200 if it's only a pcb fault. anyone here give a quote..? Try Sean at PCImage... his forum name here is "pcimage" _________________ You don't have to backup all of your data, just the data you want to keep. yeah i think he pm'd me earlier cheers. seems like good guy..???? how do you tell..????? ================================================================================ WD Caviar SE SATA HDD Wont Boot to XP Hello Guys I am so Sad with my WD Caviar SE SATA HDD. It just ran fine until today morning when the PC wouldnt boot to XP. New went fine, so did the loading thing of Windows LOGO. After that the PC keeps on restarting and halted on New. I only saw a message that HDD S.M.A.R.T is bad, Backup and Replace. But only once I could get into XP and started copying some files, and the PC restarted . I ran the WD diag tool and it sees all the files within that 250 GB C:\ only HDD partition. So How to copy those files to Another HDD??? Or, Any way to Reinstate the Partition Header? Image with a non-windows s/w. E.g. dd_rescue, Media Tools _________________ PC Image Data Recovery www.pcimage.co.uk pcimage, How can I do Imaging with a non Windows software? something like knoppix? I just again checked, Western Digital Diagnostic tool is clearly showing all my files. Only the XP NTFS partition has been broken. I guess some virus or something, or may be a mechanical jitter. Your drive is dying....... This warning does not happen often and you should image your drive ASAP, otherwise you going to kill your drive and recovery will cost you a little fortune. If you don't know how to do this task, take it to someone who knows. _________________ Don't gamble with your data! With all your guidance, I can do it by myself. You people seems ery experience. Just let me know what to do now. its not even a year that I bought this WD drive and now its dying. No more Mechanical drives, Solid states from Now on. Oh ya guide me how to recover the data from this drive, thanks all. I have a feeling that when the SSD's start to become popular a lot are going to fail faster than mechanical drives. Just a feeling... :mrgreen: Who have Samsung hard drive Factory software? Who have Samsung hard drive Factory software and The latest burn in resources??? ccssi wrote: Who have Samsung hard drive Factory software and The latest burn in resources??? Maybe someone in Korea... what you need exactly? Wich soft are u asking?? If you are referring to such programs as vtools and hutil, they don't support the newer drives. ================================================================== Maxtor HDD problem Hi I have Maxtor hdd 3.5 series and my fren fall down it from about 2feet and now it is not working. I have used so many repairer software but no software solved the problem and it detect in Bios but not in windows if you have any solution for this plz send it fast me just having lots of problem. Normally when a HDD falls any distance and it is working you will have some or major damage to the platters of the HDD. This is not a simple or easy repair that can be done with software. The drives needs to be opened in a clean room by a professional DR company. I am sorry but normally there is a head problems on the drive after a fall. This can also cause spindle motor to jam and block inside the drive. If you value your data I would stop trying to work on this drive and find a professional in your area or near you to have them take a look at this drive . Do not open it yourself. You will surely destory the drive and your chances for recovery will be less than if you just leave it alone. Hope that you can find someone near you to help you out. There are a lot of people on this forum who can do this work for you and if you are interested in some help please ask and someone here will be in contact with you on this one. Good luck on this. _________________ Iorana Haraharaini =============================================================== Seagate ST3500830AS burnt, possible to repair?? Hello again! I got a iomega Ext. Hdd Encl. from a college to find out what the problem is, because it wont even show a life sign, he said! today i opend the case and plugged the Hdd onto my PC! After Powering up, the drive killed the PC with a heartbeat! I smelled something burnt and had a look on the back cause i thought maybe a blow fuse or smth. but couldnt determine anything! Is it in any way possible to get it back to work again?? THX i.a. PS. how can i edit a New?? cant find any button for editing?? :oops: Hi, U cannot edit your New after 15 min or so... regarding the drive: Probably a PCB problem, can be as simple as removing a TVS, or as problematic as a killed preamp as well. search TVS on this forum, u will find lotta useful things... Data Recovery lab (mumbai) _________________ - Data recovery check this pic for mention which is TVS. http://www.gotbackdata.com/photos/diode.jpg _________________ provide entire dirve,PCB,firmware,hard disk accessories. talk to me! Data Recovery service sunnydreamspace@hotmail.com Hello, thank you for your answers, and tips on the TVS´s! I made some photos of the PCB, because i cant find any burned or molten diodes nor resistors! maybe you guys can point me the points out whom are to test ??? like i found on the Backside Pic a place on the upper right, that looks like it got really hot?? THANKS i.a. Fuddster Attachments: IMG_4571.JPG IMG_4571.JPG [ 1.19 MiB | Viewed 338 times ] IMG_4569.JPG IMG_4569.JPG [ 1.52 MiB | Viewed 338 times ] bottom picture, tvs are on the top left beneath the power connector. check with multimeter if their are shortened. you can also plug in a sata power adapter cable (from normal 4 pin power to sata and measure between ground and 5/12 V if there is a shortage). OK... Thx again for the helpful hints... I hope i did the right messuring with the Multimeter :? So i turned the wheel of the Mm to the Diode sign and pluged the red into V&mA and the black to COM... ( Pic ) The results are shown on the PCB Picture... The left one is 001 (mA???) and the right one shows 510... constantly ! I hope i measured right and again hope you guys can help me once again... :| Thanks a lot... Fuddster Attachments: IMG_4569.JPG IMG_4569.JPG [ 916.55 KiB | Viewed 310 times ] M-830.jpg M-830.jpg [ 13.79 KiB | Viewed 310 times ] YES!!!!!!!! Drive is working again.. awesome... I desoldered the "defective" diode and gave it a shot, like in the other threads... and BINGO.. NOW .... The Question I´ve got is, do i have to replace the diode with an exact same one? ( defective one ) ontop is written E BUX C718 what i know is that it has to be a 12V capable one because, the diode was traced to 12V on sata... i cant find any data sheet with this description so i wikied TVS and got what i wanted... now that i am from germany i started Eshopping at my electronics shop and found these diodes.. are these the right ones??? http://www.reichelt.de/?;ACTION=3;LA=2;GROUP=A46;GROUPID=3000;ARTICLE=42024;START=0;SORT=preis;OFFSET=100;SID=31MCNbH6wQAR8AAG@-Xv4120d052d87b4f1c6c90769aac13d1839 On the other hand, i have an old IDE Hdd seagate ST310014ACE 8GB with diodes on it! Can i just swap the Diode from the IDEs 12v (ontop is written BUF C501 ) to my 500GBs missing one??? Im askin cause they have totally different specs on top and i cant find any datasheets or types with the same "specs"! Once again... THANK U ALL!!!! :D :D :D sorry for my confusing way to discribe, ask n write... Fuddster wrote: OK... Thx again for the helpful hints... I hope i did the right messuring with the Multimeter :? So i turned the wheel of the Mm to the Diode sign and pluged the red into V&mA and the black to COM... ( Pic ) The results are shown on the PCB Picture... The left one is 001 (mA???) and the right one shows 510... constantly ! I hope i measured right and again hope you guys can help me once again... :| Thanks a lot... Fuddster The left one (12V TVS diode) is shorted. This is usually what happens when you plug a 19V laptop adapter into a 12V external HD. Desolder the faulty diode, or cut it out with side cutters. Just remember you will no longer have any protection on the 12V rail. The component you are referring to is a 12V, 600W, unidirectional TVS diode, marking code BUX, made by ST Microelectronics. The BU? marking code appears to be used by ST Microelectronics in their SMBJ series 600W Transil (TVS) range. The "C" appears to be the manufacturing location, followed by a numeric YWW date code. BUF marking code is part number SMBJ13A-TR, working voltage 13V http://www.datasheetarchive.com/pdf-dat ... 631289.pdf http://www.st.com/stonline/products/lit ... s/5616.pdf I believe that "BUX" doesn't appear in the SMBJ datasheet because it probably is a special run for Seagate. You should be able to replace it with an SMBJ12A from Farnell, Mouser, Digikey. The P6SMB 15A 600W TVS diode you have chosen appears to be a good replacement. It has a working voltage of 12.80V and a breakdown voltage in the range from 14.30V to 15.80V. http://www.sinus-electronic.de/datenbla ... SMB_de.pdf :mrgreen: Heres one HAAAAPY FellA!!!! THANK U ALL SOOOO MUCH FOR URE EXELLENT HELP ON THIS!!!!!!!!! I´ll order this right away! THANK YOU!!!!! Fuddster! swersig wrote: bottom picture, tvs are on the top left beneath the power connector. check with multimeter if their are shortened. you can also plug in a sata power adapter cable (from normal 4 pin power to sata and measure between ground and 5/12 V if there is a shortage). ============================================================ Platter damage on HTS723232L9SA60 Offline Hi Guys I have a Hitachi HTS723232L9SA60 with H3 damage and scratch the outter edge of the platter (see attached). Just wondering any chance of recovering the data, thinking of head exchange with new donor drive......but not sure if the damage area has SA. Thanks. Attachments: IMG_5543.JPG IMG_5543.JPG [ 385.25 KiB | Viewed 300 times ] _________________ ?????? ????, ????? Hello TerraNova, I think SA is somewhere in the middle of this drive. Maybe someone else can confirm this for you. Nothing to do SA Area there. no bad head before that , bad height yes! XRONIS _________________ T3 Professional Data Recovery http://www.t3-recovery.com Looks like parking zone has caused problem. Heads might be ok? I'm guessing this lost #3 head and got stuck between the platter and head ramp? _________________ http://www.hddpros.com Only for professionals. ;) I think i can help. I have some special trick for similar cases. ;) Location: inside ROM H3 virtually grinded off, no more h3 :D , what do you guys think, head exchange will work? Ramp is ok, H3 gone, the rest of the heads are ok. _________________ ?????? ????, ????? head exchange should work. might have to clean platters though! Had a similar problem with a WD. Those heads just seem to pop off every once in a while for no reason. The head got jammed under the parking ramp and scored the platter. It was a good recovery though once all the debris was cleaned out and the heads replaced. The area where the scoring has occured holds no data, and as long as the new heads stay off of it, you should be fine. Let us know how it goes. Thank you guys for helping out, managed to recover most crucial data. I made a limitter to prevent head from moving to the damage area and some tweaking in DE. _________________ ?????? ????, ????? good thread! Can i ask how you made the limiter? I'll assume it was mechanical (a lump of something) which makes me wonder why the controller did not shut the drive down when it hit that resistance? Also, as this drive has a ramp and parks off-platter, I am wondering how you managed to load the heads onto the platter on spinup without damaging them? Thanks! mediaman wrote: good thread! Can i ask how you made the limiter? I'll assume it was mechanical (a lump of something) which makes me wonder why the controller did not shut the drive down when it hit that resistance? Also, as this drive has a ramp and parks off-platter, I am wondering how you managed to load the heads onto the platter on spinup without damaging them? Thanks! who sad it is mechanical, and who sad "it hits" any "resistance"? :mrgreen: There is a lot of way. Use your fantasy! (if you have) Janos hmm, ok Janos, you have got my imagination working (i have never had a real case like this, so it's all I have ;) :roll: I can imagine with DE, he can turn off the head on the troubled platter over a certain range of sectors (the bad ones), I also imagine there is no or very little data on that extreeme outside of that platter?? but what I can't imagine is how he spins up the disk without the parked head damaging itself as it crosses onto the cleaner areas of the platter... i would imagine the wear to be higher (rougher) than the air cushion would clear? Thanks! If you look at the picture you can clearly see that the damage was to the unused area under the plastic head ramp. This hd lost a head and got stuck at the ramp in my opinion. The heads are so small its easily lost or overlooked. :shock: _________________ http://www.hddpros.com Only for professionals. ;) thatdellguy wrote: If you look at the picture you can clearly see that the damage was to the unused area under the plastic head ramp. This hd lost a head and got stuck at the ramp in my opinion. The heads are so small its easily lost or overlooked. :shock: ... or the magne can capture it, or can stuck somewhere else.... I have found it sometimes some really extreme places.... :mrgreen: http://adatmentes24.hu/hun/galeria_kepek/P1030252.JPG http://adatmentes24.hu/hun/galeria_kepek/P1030257.JPG Janos mediaman wrote: but what I can't imagine is how he spins up the disk without the parked head damaging itself as it crosses onto the cleaner areas of the platter... i would imagine the wear to be higher (rougher) than the air cushion would clear? Thanks! Sorry, but your fantasy is not too big. :P There are many tricks for different similar problems... N.C. wrote: mediaman wrote: but what I can't imagine is how he spins up the disk without the parked head damaging itself as it crosses onto the cleaner areas of the platter... i would imagine the wear to be higher (rougher) than the air cushion would clear? Thanks! Sorry, but your fantasy is not too big. :P There are many tricks for different similar problems... Well I learned a lot in this thread... thanks