Somewhere I read that it consumes 24W in the 12V line, and 3.7 in the 5V line. Maybe it helps
That's not sounding good... Sometimes an IC will be damaged, and draw a lot of current, yet it won't show up as a dead short. You may be looking at a board swap. There's a few things I'd try:
I'd remove the board from the drive, and see if it's still blowing fuses.
I'd check again the TVS device, and perhaps replace or remove it. Make sure you use the right one (Don't use a 12V device on the 5V line).
I'd try a variable power supply on the 5V line, slowly turning up the voltage until getting to 1-2 Amps, and then seeing what part gets hot.
I removed it and tested. It blowed 2 and 4A fuses.
For the other solutions, I will have a pro technician do that. I will inform you as soon as I get results.
I am using the fuses with the blown TVS still mounted. You are saying that the damaged TVS may be still drawing current?
Thanks
barbaroja wrote:
I removed it and tested. It blowed 2 and 4A fuses.
For the other solutions, I will have a pro technician do that. I will inform you as soon as I get results.
I am using the fuses with the blown TVS still mounted. You are saying that the damaged TVS may be still drawing current?
Thanks
Hiya!
I think rchadwick just presumed you had removed the 'blown TVS'
It would be a good idea to do a simple check with any digital multimeter to see if it is shorted. You could use the diode check mode to confirm if there is a short. Do it without the drive being connect to the psu.
I
I think I have something:
Please correct me if I am wrong. The piece that follows next to the TVS is a diode.
The 12V line has one. The 5V line has another one. These two diodes are touching GND on one side and Voltage lines in the other. The 12V line is open (edit: with a number greater than 1 in the multimeter wich do not understand clearly) (1 is no conductivity, 0 is full shorted).
The 5V line is full shorted (edit: and reads 0 in the multimeter).
Maybe there is the short-circuit?
I have attached an image.
I must have misunderstood. I thought you said you checked for shorts. When the TVS fails, it often shorts, which is actually a good thing (Hopefully it protected everything else). With a shorted TVS, you will be blowing fuses. Replace or remove the TVS, then try starting up with a fuse.
rchadwick wrote:
I must have misunderstood. I thought you said you checked for shorts. When the TVS fails, it often shorts, which is actually a good thing (Hopefully it protected everything else). With a shorted TVS, you will be blowing fuses. Replace or remove the TVS, then try starting up with a fuse.
Sorry, rchadwick, I do not have much expertise into this. I did check, but I somehow skipped that. That piece is marked "648 HE". Any word on that? I have googled it and it says it is a diode.
Just for being clear, ¿should I put the fuse where the jumper is, and replace the "648" diode with other one similar?
Thanks so much!!! I am starting to see a light!!!
You have to remove/replace damaged diode, then your HDD should start (hopefully). The diode shorts when voltage is increasing, PSU detects the short and switches off (good PSU should). The diode is permanently damaged right now and your PSU won't start. You can try to start the HDD without the diode (just unsolder it, don't replace if you don't have matching one), but then you don't have any protection (if the same problem with your PSU will occur again something more than a TVS will be burnt).
It happens often that not only TVS is damaged - PCB elements can be damaged even when TVS worked...
PS: TVS is that black thing with visible crack on it (labeled "SHORT"). You marked a fuse (or 0 ohm resistor) with TVS label - just to be sure you unsolder right element ;)
YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS UJUUUUUUU I am soooo happy.
I went downtown and found someone that had seen this issue lots of times before. He extracted a 000 jumper from somewhere and the diode from an Asus board near to a USB connector. Now it works!!! Perfectly.
I am going to give you further info on the diode as soon as I finish backing up my work!
Thank you so much. The knowledge I have from this forum is awesome and helped the technician do his work easily as I guided him into the troublesome spot inmediately. Also I had to correct him once because of the positioning of the diode.
I hope this forum helps others as well.
Yes, I definitely had a confusion with the jumper and the TVS. It is the device next to the jumper, wich was shorted and that caused the jumper to burn, so the fuses that I use would always toast.
The TVS was replaced with a PJ44 SK24 one, extracted from another board.
I hope this info serves others well, as the technician said that was a very common fault in SATA devices.
Thanks very much to all the members who helped me!
News:
The drive is dying now. Its making a repetitive clicking noise at startup. I dont see it that could be related anyhow to the blown TVS. One damage derives into another one...like a chain.
Important info:
I made it work by turning it upside down several times, I know I could be damaging the surface and the heads, but I took the risk and it worked! At least long enough to recover the few data that was not backed up before.
If you use this method, and it works for you, recover your data inmediately in the session without turning off the computer. It may be the last time it works!
I would like to know the relationship between the TVS and the physical damage...Any light?
It seems like you did everything in your power to destroy the drive.
I don't think you had "a year of work in risk", otherwise you would have taken it to a pro.
_________________
Don't gamble with your data!
Er, I dont think so. in fact, fixing the issue was not that complicated due to helpful people here.
If anyone knows if the TVS replacement and the clicking noise have a relationship in between, that would be helpful, too.
Thanks.
"Er, I dont think so. in fact, fixing the issue was not that complicated due to helpful people here."
:roll: :roll: :roll:
_________________
?????? ????,
?????
barbaroja wrote:
I think I have something:
Please correct me if I am wrong. The piece that follows next to the TVS is a diode.
The 12V line has one. The 5V line has another one. These two diodes are touching GND on one side and Voltage lines in the other. The 12V line is open (edit: with a number greater than 1 in the multimeter wich do not understand clearly) (1 is no conductivity, 0 is full shorted).
The 5V line is full shorted (edit: and reads 0 in the multimeter).
Maybe there is the short-circuit?
I have attached an image.
Hello barbaroja. I've been following your case for a couple of days since I share your bad experience with the exact same model of 500GB Sata hard disk, which I found to be inside my external hard disk drive made (or assembled) by LaCie. The casing of the external disk and its power supply messed up both components you specify on the JPEG file you attached previously.
My loss of information was considerable, almost 400GB of stuff I'd like to recover (and if possible the drive, too).
Is there any chance you or the rest of you guys can help me discover the specifications for both such components? I'm looking for someone at work who can help with the soldering but, obviously, I have to buy the replacement components.
I'll be forever grateful for your help.
hi guys
did u find the solution ? what exactly happened ? when u connect yr drive ur pc will not on ?
first check the diod just neerby yr 000 jumper ?do you find it is short than just pill off it from the one side {any side } .and than solder the 000 jumper u can use any 0 value register u can find it easily on any drive and also find it from motherboard.now power on yr hdd it will deffinatly works.it is most commnon problem with sata hdd .enjoy.
Due to this specs, what would be the suggested fuse? Still 2 to 3 Amps?
Extracted from Samsung tech service:
Power Requirenents Voltage +12V±10%
Spin-up Current 2,000 mA
Seek 10.6 W
Read/Write 10.0 W
Idle 8.2 W
Standy 0.7 W
Sleep 0.7 W
If the drive draws 10W when its reading, and I put a 3 amp fuse, should it blow?
Hello,
You need to use 1 - 1.2 A fuse!
If it blows, there still a short component.
Never use bigger fuse for a hard disk while try to recover!
Regars,
Janos
hello datasolution,
how about telling us each component's specs? I have a couple of very good electronics stores in my town (even tho I live in Santiago, Chile), and I'd like to buy those components new. I don't want to risk further damage to my Samsung HD501LJ and the data in it.
I still can't tell by your comments what component 1 and component 2 really are. Help! Samsung won't help me at all.
Days pass and I keep hearing more and more horror stories from people on the internet who have this same problem (with Samsung and other hdd brands) they plug their drives (mostly new) and smoke starts to appear on their units.
Thanks to you all for your unvaluable help.
I thought I went over the specs to the point of beating the dead horse to a pulp. Your question is like:
"I've just bought a new car, and I NEED to find the exact chemical composition gasoline that it came with from the factory. Don't tell me to just go to a gas station. I want the EXACT gas the manufacturer used."
Well, if you want that, it's not here. I don't know. I'd bet the Engineers who designed the drive don't know (Parts substitutions happen all the time). Samsung doesn't seem to be telling you either. Good luck with that duck chase tho...
If by chance you're interested in fixing the drive, and by chance the only thing wrong with your drive is a blown fuse, then all the info you need is in this thread.
Hi everyone,
it sems that I have totally same problem nad totally sam disk.
(if my english will be bad then tell me about it and I will give better explanation what I mean)
Cause of damage
Cause of damage is ME. I'm so stupid.
Power supply of my external enclosure burned so I tried to connect similar power supply that I have. It was same manufacturer and quite similar type of external box. But there were different connectors. So I connected power supply connector and enclosure by simple cables. It worked fine but then I wanted to change disk and I wasn't careful and forget for reflection of connectors and swap 5V and 12V connector. Disk blowed.
Now, if I try to start disk then it smells and fumes in part on picture:
I checked that solder melts in part in red ring on picture.
Image
What solution?
First, I want to buy another disk and try to swap PCB and safe data
Then I would like to try to repair damaged disk.
But I read that swapping would be probably problem:
http://datacent.com/datarecovery/hdd/samsung/HD501LJ
Quote:
If this is the case you can try to swap PCB from another hard drive of the same model but the chances of success, especially on newer hard drives, are close to zero. The problem is that logic board on modern hard drive is adapted to the head disk assembly it was manufactured with. In our lab we use specialized software and hardware to rebuild these adaptive parameters in ROM to make donor PCB fully compatible with damaged drive.
Is this information true?
I don't mean money safe like reason because I want another external disk to backup first disk anyway. So new boughten disk will be in use.
I have already HD501LJ in order to buy it. Should I cancel that order, skip swapping of PCB and start to solve problem like in this thread?
Thank you for answers
Please, delete my previous New and add information about replacement of terms "fuse" and "TVS diode" of barbaroja to first New of thread!
Now I finish studying of this threat from beginning carefully and now I think that I understand to all the things.
First, I attached final true description of Samsung HD501LJ parts.
Zero-ohm link (Zero-ohm resistor) made like SMT resistor
and
Transient voltage suppression diode (TVS diode).
It sems that I have totally same problem nad totally same disk.
Cause of damage
Cause of damage is me. I'm so stupid.
Power supply of my external enclosure burned so I tried to connect similar power supply that I have. It was same manufacturer and quite similar type of external box. But there were different connectors. So I connected power supply connector and enclosure by simple cables. It worked fine but then I wanted to change disk and I wasn't careful and forget for reflection of connectors and swap 5V and 12V connector. Disk blowed.
Now, if I try to start disk then it smells and fumes near TVS diode for 5V (on picture):
I checked that solder melts too.
TVS diode for 5V is printed with something like:
]¦¦740 HE
TVS diode for 12V is printed with:
]¦¦740 LE
Zero-ohm resistor (part printed with "0") looks OK (thanks to weak power suply for external enclosure).
So now I need to know alternative to TVS diode for 5V - is this enough information that it's for 5V in shop?
P.S.: Before reading this thread I thought about buying same HDD and swap all the PCB but I read that swapping wouldn't be useful:
http://datacent.com/datarecovery/hdd/samsung/HD501LJ
Quote:
If this is the case you can try to swap PCB from another hard drive of the same model but the chances of success, especially on newer hard drives, are close to zero. The problem is that logic board on modern hard drive is adapted to the head disk assembly it was manufactured with. In our lab we use specialized software and hardware to rebuild these adaptive parameters in ROM to make donor PCB fully compatible with damaged drive.
YES! HDD works again after removing TVS!
All thanks to this forum!
Now what is TVS with strange number ]¦¦740 HE?
Hi,
Just a big thankyou for all the News on this subject. I've had the exact same thing with this drive and luckily I was in the posession of the same type in order to compare volatges, resistances etc.
As per the other cases, the '000' resistor had blown as a result of (or because of) the 5V TVS. After removing this TVS and soldering a link across the '000' the drive starts up and I'm busy hoovering the data off it!
Many thanks :)
Don't forget to not use the drive after the data is comes out...
This drive have no longer protections, and will burn badly next time, so this is not safe!
Janos
I know that it's dangerous, but I used HDD without TVS (on new enclosure, certainly). It works a few weeks till I have chance to recovery data. It worked fine, fortunately.
dayslypper wrote:
I know that it's dangerous, but I used HDD without TVS (on new enclosure, certainly). It works a few weeks till I have chance to recovery data. It worked fine, fortunately.
If you want to use the good hdd (without tvs), i suggest to try to find another (almost any model) dead samsung hdd from ebay, and move the good TVS from the bad hdd to your.
The TVS have only 2 type, the 5V and the 12V type.
If you match the voltage side, you only need to match the polarity as well, and you are done. ;)
The drive is safe again.
Janos
Thank you, I know. I have TVS yet. I buy them in in shop. I know about polarity and will be carefull.
But I have soldering gun only. I must wait for soldering iron which safer and doesn't have voltage peaks that can destroy TVS.
I haven't read through all the suggestions, but when I have a blown board, I do not try to fix it because of the simple reason that many other IC's are also blown when the "fuse" blew. The fuse acts too slow to prevent the other components from being damaged!
The only jub of this fuse is to prevent fire on the board! I had this happen many times in the last 20 years in the PC business.
The good intentions of others are admirable, but all the help they suggest will just lead to frustration and maybe loss of all data after you think you have the correct component.
The only practical and only real solution is to buy another identical knows working drive (ebay, craigs list, etc.) and swap the board.
Sometimes this didn't fix the problem either, because there is a read/write head pre-amp inside the drive itself which was also blown. This is another tiny circuit board with electronics on it inside the cover. There's no way you can replace this yourself.
If you try another board and it doesn't work, your only solution is to send it to someone that specializes in data recovery. The actually remove the platters in a clean room environment and install it in a known good drive to recover the data.
Trust me, fooling around with replacing components is useless. I've been there and done that many times, and never was able to fix a board. Swapping it with a know good one is the only solution.
Most of the people who are Newing solutions such as "Remove TVS" are actually professional data recovery technicians who enjoy helping out alittle in their free time. I am a DR tech for a small Socal based company and I can say that removing a TVS is not big issue at all as long as you make sure your power source is secure, and you are only running the drive long enough to extract the valuable data.
... and swapping boards do not always (brand and model depending) work.
Try to do it on Toshiba and you'll be amazed, or on some IBM...
Sometimes from a good board then after swap the bad boards are two.
This doesn't apply to pro service, naturally. But people always believe in their Internet god, so why worry? When it's good, it's good, when it's bad, usually the loss is limited to some pics , porn and warez. So why worry ?
Times are changed... :D
Hi all,
Thanks to all of you for your comments and help. I have the exact same problem as detailled throughout the New.
I would like to test shorts on the PCB, but I'm not sure how to use the multimeter. Could you give me precisions ?
Should I realize the test with PSU connected ?
The multimeter should be in which mode ? ohmmeter ? voltmeter ?
Thks again!
No, without power supply!!!!!
You will use Ohm-meter. When resistivity is 0 then TVS is bad, when infinity than TVS is OK.
How To Use A Multimeter
Hello people,
I tested my PCU for shorts around the 2 TVS and the jumper.
I read the following values (calibre 2000kohms)
jumper : 1365
TVS 5V : I read 1
TVS 12V : 43
What do you think of those values ?
Thank you so much again for your answers,
5V TVS should be good - 1 on the left side of display means infinity.
Please decrease range of resistance. If 12V TVS will be infinity then it's OK too.
Jumper is a conductor and it should have low unmeasurable resistance.
rote:
I'm amateur. I would to try it, before I worte it but I had no second multimeter.
Now I feel like crap. Please accept my apology.
In fact, I'm not even a DR amateur, so you're a step ahead of me. Just call it a brain fart and forget it. I've had plenty of them.
Actually, from what I've seen, I'm betting that you may have a better understanding of electronics than most of the DR pros.
Cheers.
=========================================================================================
ST9500325AS
Hi guru,
I've got some strange looking problem with st9500325as. It seems to be a corrupted translator problem. Disk had corrupted smart so I've rebuild it and then disk shows LBA=0. I recalculated translator and now it shows correct value, but when I scan it, only first 75gb are accessible, access to the rest is blocked and errors are generated. Any idea how to fix it?
Best Regards
Pawel
Hi,
We can fix it in Hungary. There is no 'onebutton' solution for this problem, so U will need somebody who knows his stuff...
regards,
Data Recovery lab (mumbai)
_________________
- Data recovery
============================================================================
Yellow Colours in Hd Tune Pro - Is my hdd ok?
Can anyone tell me what this yellow mark means?
Its a completely new laptop?
============================================================================
Question: swapping boards on seagate HDD
Hi all,
long time reader, first time Newer, etc. etc.
I have a Seagate barracuda 7200.7 120GB IDE hdd which I mananged to crack the circuit board on (don't ask how :oops: but less than 350g's ) thankfully while the HDD was unplugged from any power and not spinning. The HDD now still spins up but bios does not detect it. When the drive spins up it sounds normal and there are no "bad" noises, so hopefully the internals are still ok.
I have read on these forums that I should be able to swap the board and assuming no internal damage to the HDD I will be back in business, but I was wondering what numbers on the drive do I need to match?
I guess the following need to match:
- model number - ST3120026A
- firmware version - 3.06
But what about:
- part number (p/n - 9W2083-301)
- hda part number (HDA p/n - 100264020)
- config code - DYY-11
and I suppose the following do not need to match:
- serial numner (s/n)
- date code - 03422
- site code - AMK
Any thoughts on what I do and don't need to match? If I connect a board with wrong firmware version (for example v3.01 firmware instead of v3.06) will I fry the drive and/or the data on the drive?
Searching this forum seems to tell me I need the same firmware, but that's proving a little difficult to track down at the moment...
Thanks in advance for hopefully helping to save me somewhere between $600 - $1500 to get back my data (which is not worth $1500 that's for sure)... :D
YOU CAN'T :(
noob q - I can't what???
If you put a pcb with "wrong" fw version, the drive should not fail more than it is now. But you really need a pcb from a drive with exactly the same fw version (3.06).
ah - ok thanks, that bit i understood.
Any thoughts on the "other" numbers on the drive?
i think i had the same problem as yours, i swap pcb it didnt work, with exact firmware. Only seagate lower 40G that works.
it worked but all data scrambled. and occasionally knocking.
For Barracuda 7200.7 drives, u need to match model #, firmware version, and should be same date of manufacture.
ghost
How does date matter? :D
I can provide data of mine if it maters
_________________
--
http://rzr.online.fr/q/ata :
Please help to unlock ST3120026A in max security mode , lost all pwd, do not care about data, free help welcome ...
Hi,
these News are 3,5 years old... I think the problem was solved in the meantime...
_________________
- Data recovery
rzr seems to be resurrecting hundreds of old News, just to get an answer to his ST unlock problem.
Way to go rzr, pi** everyone off by Newing hundreds of times about the same problem.
=================================================================================
wd 1600js-75ncb3 pcm board needed
HAVE A BURNED UP BOARD....WAS WONDERING IF ANYONE HAS ONE OR A SUGGESTION AS TO WHERE I SHOULD LOOK.
BOARD INFO
2060-701335-005 REV A
MG
I have the pcb you need , PM if interested .
==========================================================================
cutting off the beginning of a hhdrive?
Is there some way to cut off the beginning of a hard drive surface?
Most of softwares can only cut off the end of a hard drive.
My hard disk has bad sectors at beginning. I have repaired these sectors, perforemed low level format, etc but after some days , it crashes again xp.
I thinks the only solution would be " to cut off the beginning of a hard drive" , approximately 4gb
Thanks in advance
Just get the data off if you can, and replace the drive
For cutting in the beginning you need special tools and deep knowledge of SA , You can leave the area making partition in such a way .
==============================================================================
Help needed to write Seagate Vendor Track :
Hi there.
I'm requesting help regarding a Seagate Barracuda ATA IV - ST340016A drive that i want to SelfScan.
Drive have some realocated sectors and i want to SS it as an experience, but i need to be able to write back Vendor and ATA when selfscan finish.
So far i've manage to backup those tracks correctly, because i've compared in HEX editor the files that i've downloaded from my drive with the ones for the same moddel under Hard Disk Recovery Lab files and they match, so i'm using the right procedure to download the data, but i can't upload it back.
Here is more info :
Barracuda IV - SNOWMASS
Service Area SPT - 0x02B9
Firmware version 3.19,
Vendor data track - 0x700C - offset 0x0C (0x100 sectors)
Buff-R - 0
Buff-W - 10
I'm using ST_Mem to write VENDOR to drive. To test i've changed drive name on STUFF manually to "Spildit" instead of ST340016A. I'm assuming that when i manage to restore the vendor track back the model will revert to default because i'm using a track saved before the changes. I will not risk to start selfscan if i can't find a way to write back to the drive.
Thos is what i've tried so far with ST_MEM :
vendor.bin is my vendor track :
W_SECTORS/<09*AUTO/0/10/0/ALL/vendor.bin/0/1
doesn't seam to do anything when i run that script. I can see the terminal log on ST_MEM and i can use "." and all the other commands under terminal, but the above script doesn't upload anything to the drive.
I've also tried :
W_SECTORS/700C/0/10/0/ALL/vendor.bin/0/1
and the resoult is the same as above. Doesn't work. I press RUN, for a sec. it seams to run but it doesn't seams to do anything.
What am i doing wrong ? Maybe i'm using wrong script. Can someone help me ?
PS - I've managed to get SeDiv to work fine but free version will not write to drive also.
Thanks.
_________________
Image
Are you using a paid version of st_mem? In my understanding the W_SECTORS command does not work in the free version.
_________________
You don't have to backup all of your data, just the data you want to keep.
I'm using the free version ;(
Do you know how to contact the autor of St_Mem and the price of the version that can write to the drives ?
Any other options to write back to the drive ? SeDiv also reads but to write back i need a full (not free) version. I had problems with SeDiv but manage to fix the problem and now it's working fine.
Is there any other way to write to the drive or to send the file to the drive ?
Thanks.
_________________
Image
Use this script for writing vendor track :
STR/s700C,0
S_BUF/10/vendor.bin/0/4/0
LEVEL/2
STR/w,0,4
have a ST340016A
_________________
--
http://rzr.online.fr/q/ata :
Please help to unlock ST3120026A in max security mode , lost all pwd, do not care about data, free help welcome ...
===============================================================================
7200.7-Replaced PCB-Drive now detected by BIOS but not WinXP
Hello,
I recently replaced the shorted out PCB on my Seagate Barracuda 7200.7 Plus ST3120026A 120GB. The drive now spins up, is detected by the bios (and correctly identified) but will not show in windows explorer or disk manager. I got the exact same board for the model and part number and firmware.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Thanks.
you need to transfer data from the damaged PCB to the newly replaced PCB...
If you don't have the hardware, $25 soldering iron from a local WalMart will do the job. Also it can kill that small chip in the process very easily.
hddmania wrote:
you need to transfer data from the damaged PCB to the newly replaced PCB...
If you don't have the hardware, $25 soldering iron from a local WalMart will do the job. Also it can kill that small chip in the process very easily.
how would i do that and which chip? I have searched the forums and it seemed like this was an issue for the 7200.11s only.
thanks for your response!
Could you New two or three good resolution pictures of your PCB???
If it has the ROM chip, then you can desolder and solder it back on the replacement PCB.
Mid-range soldring iron will do the job.
If it has the built-in chip, then you need to seek a data recovery firm to do the manipulation...
wow dude. in parallel i have been reading the forum regarding the tvs. used my multimeter to find the short on my original board (prior to reading your additional responses), ripped out the diode (wasnt even sure it was the right one just that it was shorted!), and now the drive WORKS with the original PCB!! I am now transferring my data. I really appreciate your help and this forum. saved many years of data, this forum rocks!
duojet wrote:
wow dude. in parallel i have been reading the forum regarding the tvs. used my multimeter to find the short on my original board (prior to reading your additional responses), ripped out the diode (wasnt even sure it was the right one just that it was shorted!), and now the drive WORKS with the original PCB!! I am now transferring my data. I really appreciate your help and this forum. saved many years of data, this forum rocks!
Just be careful - those TVSes had burnt out for a reason!
jauh wrote:
duojet wrote:
wow dude. in parallel i have been reading the forum regarding the tvs. used my multimeter to find the short on my original board (prior to reading your additional responses), ripped out the diode (wasnt even sure it was the right one just that it was shorted!), and now the drive WORKS with the original PCB!! I am now transferring my data. I really appreciate your help and this forum. saved many years of data, this forum rocks!
Just be careful - those TVSes had burnt out for a reason!
yes, i have successfully transferred all of my data, and I won't really be using the drive again. also, I have a new, much better quality power supply in my pc now (lesson learned!)
hi I have ST3120026A too, can you check what's the master password on yours ?
_________________
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Please help to unlock ST3120026A in max security mode , lost all pwd, do not care about data, free help welcome ...
======================================================================================
Seagate ST9320320AS (Momentus 5400.5 - F3 Family) locked
Some one know the correct way to Unlock Seagate ST9320320AS (Momentus 5400.5 - F3 Family) Hdd ?
Thank you to all
Is silillar to the old families
_________________
S. Karakashev
I try to use the procedure like the old models, but seem the address where the password is located, is different for F3 family. If you have success for unlock Momentus 5400.5 Hdd, can you explain in that way ?
Thank you
Data Recovery lab (mumbai) wrote:
Yeah, this is very sensitive information, I'm afraid nobody will teach HDD unlocking for free...
But there are many firms ready to recover your drive once U have a proof of ownership.
Data Recovery lab (mumbai)
Amen
Thank you Data Recovery lab (mumbai)!
_________________
S. Karakashev
These can be unlocked using SD software.
Sorry but can you tell me what is SD software ?
Thank you
Salvation data
Rep
does this also work on ST3120026A when it's in maximum security mode ?
_________________
--
http://rzr.online.fr/q/ata :
Please help to unlock ST3120026A in max security mode , lost all pwd, do not care about data, free help welcome ...ST3160021A Drive Failure
I have a Barracuda 7200.7 160Gb hdd that has failed. The drive spins up and does not make any abnormal noises to my ear...a click or two at start up and then a smooth sounding operation. The drive does not show up in the bios nor can I get mhdd to show me any information. The only valuable data on the drive would be pictures files. I know enough to know that I have reached my limit of expertise. Any advise or follow up questions to lead me further to a solution would be greatly appreciated.
The drive is not mine but I do know that the computer exhibited a bsod and the drive was never functional again. While this is relatively unhelpful, I do know that the failure occurred while the computer was operating. There are no burn marks or visual damage to the pcb board that I can tell. I have a donor drive available (same model,p/n,firmware, and sitecode) but am reluctant to open either drive up until I've evaluated the cost of having a competent person tell me what it might cost me to recover these pictures. I would prefer to not make this drive my DIY learning experience gone bad. I am located in Ohio, U.S.A.
Failed Drive info:
ST3160021A
P/N 9W2001-050
Firmware 3.04
Date Code 04262
Site Code WU
I have ST3120026A (120GB) not sure it's close enough to yours
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Please help to unlock ST3120026A in max security mode , lost all pwd, do not care about data, free help welcome ...
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which is more important, IC# or FIRMWARE# for seagate
I can find a pcb with the correct firmware, and I can find a board with the correct IC# but not both at the same time. Is it possible that one of these will work?
Thanks, Ben
MODEL: st3120026a
PN: 9W2083-306
CONFIG: D4H-02
FIRMWARE: 8.54
DATE: 05164
SITE CODE: WU
IC: 100274360
MOTOR IC: SH650
PCB: 100306044 rev a
Seagates are a pain.
That Firmware: 8.54 is only the first three digits of the firmware which is really in the drive.
I have seem them change the firmware once a week.
I normally try to match the first 5 digits (or more) of the serial number.
If you had PC-3000 or Salvation data you can read the exact version it has.
I'll can check on mine .. bbl
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Please help to unlock ST3120026A in max security mode , lost all pwd, do not care about data, free help welcome ...
There are some funny things going on with latter version of Seagate. We are working on it. Point is ROM contains info for this very drive and if you connect different lb to hd it will attempt to reprogram lb. As a result lb will be not work for nothing. Be careful.
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seagate ST3120026A 120G burnt PCB
hello all, i'm new to this board and i must say it is a very informative forum.
I've got a problem i'm hoping someone can help me with.
I've got the above mentioned hard drive and recently my power supply blew taking a few things with it, including this drive. Upon closer inspection, I noticed what I believed to be a diode exploded on the PCB. I was told that upon removing it that it would continue to function, but it doesn't. So, i've included a picture of it and am hoping that someone here can identify what the component once was so I can maybe replace it and get all of my data back! Please and thank you.
Adasm wrote:
hello all, i'm new to this board and i must say it is a very informative forum.
.... I was told that upon removing it that it would continue to function, but it doesn't.
Hi, welcome to the forum. From your statements did someone in this forum tell you that it would work?
Also what did the one tell you that had made your pcb fry up? My next question is what do you wanna do to the hdd --repair/data recovery?
Someone told me that they had the same problem and they were certain that component could be removed and still ahve it work.
I'd like to repair the HDD and keep using it, but im mainly concerned with getting my data back.
So, either replacing that specific component or replacing the PCB.
What would the average cost be of professional data recovery?
It depends on WHO did tell YOU thatand if you know what youre doing :mrgreen:
Good luck.
What did your hard drive do before you removed that burnt item?
What is your hard drive doing now after you removed the burnt item?
Well, the component might have been something like FT403PV, maybe not, maybe similar.
Probably it matters not, because more than likely some other component/s is/are faulty. :wink:
So even if you find the match, as you have requested, your drive probably will not work.
So some other solution must be applied to get your data, which might require more than just DIY skills.
DR experts should be able to get your data quite easily, and if you mess around too much with the pcb,
you might just never get your data.
Maybe the drive already has a fault (electronic) on the circuits inside the hard drive (HDA) then of course
it's quite a big job, but more importantly, maybe something you do while "repairing" the pcb causes a fault
inside the drive (HDA), then you would be sorry not to have sent it to an expert in the first place.
Your call :D
Well, what I see is a BIG damage to the PCB (multilayer, btw). But data can still be recovered (hope there was no tinkering done on the HDA) because the problem - for me - is elsewhere , or better, IT WAS (now there are at least two).
The original idea was to do it by himself with no money and with the help of Internet (the realm of all knowledge and all bullshit at same time) and this is the result... Don't think data was important if such kind of attempts have been done, but I can be wrong....
I think only seeing the drive a cost can be estimated correctly.
For once I start to ask a novice ?'s and get the support of the pro's. Thanx guys for the assist and not telling him upfront to send it to a pro and all the crap (half truths) put towards a starter. Hey guys don't frighten him with too much know how. Talking big is not going to get his hdd working or data back. Please give him the steps on how to solve the issue.
For example.
1. if there was no clicking from the hdd then ....
2. Are u willing to send your hard drive to an expect for evalution who would....
3. Changing the PCB might .........
4 If changing the pcb does not .........
5. do you have any knowledge about how to write the firmware.....
6. Do you know how to image .........
Peace Out
This kind of public service is discontinued :D
Hello Everybody
We have this HDD
Knowledge is more important than money!!!
Arkadas Bilgisayar
Data Recovery Services
Istanbul / TURKEY
http://www.datakurtarma.com
hi felibo,
I wish I could understand what you are asking, suggesting, expecting, hoping, wishing, advising,
telling, complimenting, and what else? :?
arkadas,
This board is not suitable for Adasm.
Nice 1
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: ......................
You guys took the bait. wanted to see ur reaction by touching the hot buttons.
Blackst for instance has dicontinued his public service, folded his tent and left the pavilion
Derp is kind of confused for I tried to draw an outline for DR but there are so many ways for DR as there are in killing a cat.
Arkadas just supplied a hdd even though the pic adasm put up does not include any specs.
I was just hopping all the other guys pcimmage, jonants, falther, rameez, Data Recovery lab (mumbai), hdd spaz, thatdellguy, drccsc, hddguy... the pro's to name few could have joined to see the mess that would be created at the fair grounds.
SORRY, NO HARD FEELINGS
Peace Out
oy yoi, yoi, yoi, yoi, :roll: I did not know things were that bad in washintong.
DC to be precise. The problem/bad thing at the moment is heath care
All I want is my data back.
I havent attempted anything to this board but to remove the remnants of said component.
The person who gave me the info was the tech guru at my company (an aerospace company).
I consider myself electronically savvy and can do alot of my own repairs, but i`ve never attempted anything on a HDD before, hence why i`m here asking questions.
I`m hoping to do this myself to save the hundreds associated with professional help.
I`m assuming if I replace this component it can work, or if not then replacing the PCB.
But again, i`m only assuming and came here to get answers. So, any more questions you may have about the HDD in question i`ll gladly answer, hoping that you can answer mine.
Additional info:
model: St3120026A
pn: 9w2083-301
HDA pn: 100278290
Config: DYY-11
FW: 3.06
Come to Italy then :mrgreen:
ok Adasm this is what u need to do AT YOUR OWN RISK
If u change the pcb you might have to get the firmware to match that hdd. So you might get the pcb but might need to write the firmware to the chip which needs special equipment that is why the saying is "SEND IT TO THE PRO'S"
So go ahead and find the pcb that matches the hdd, and if after changing it, and you power it on, and hear clicking noises don't say you where not forewarned. Then you would have to pay more to get the data you need.
Hope you can handle the truth
frelibo,
You just proven you know nothing about DR.
Adasm,
The way you hacked off the component in question shows that you cannot do the work
which is required.
You could start by going on a soldering course if you insist on doing this yourself. :wink:
get help bud, spend a little money and you will probably get your data.
Adasm sorry for giving u the wrong info. I thought I knew how to do DR but derp is the expert in that field. So I suggest u have to ignore my Newing and PLEASE take his advice.
No hard feelings derp.
Keep the Peace
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Seagate Barracuda 7200.7
model ST3120026A 120GB
s/n:5JT4TR9N
firmware:8.01
PCB:100306044 REV A
donor drive wanted !!!
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T3 Professional Data Recovery
http://www.t3-recovery.com
I have one but locked does this help ?
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http://rzr.online.fr/q/ata :
Please help to unlock ST3120026A in max security mode , lost all pwd, do not care about data, free help welcome ...
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Seagate 120GB detected* but unreadable ST3120026A
It shows up in:
BIOS
Seagatetools for DOS
Device Manager
It doesn't show up in:
My computer
Disk Management
Fdisk (detects it, but unable to access)
ignore the "USB" sign. its just the same if i connect it directly to my motherboard.
So is it really wrecked/unusable? or it is showing Failed Repair only because it is Security Locked?
Thx gurus..
The drive is locked. You must unlock the drive first and only then you will be able to access it under windows or anything else.
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Image
Spildit wrote:
The drive is locked. You must unlock the drive first and only then you will be able to access it under windows or anything else.
umm.. i know that thx
it doesn't answer my question though..
I think the tool can't access the sectors because the drive is locked. As so it assumes the sectors are bad and try to re-allocate them. But the tool can't write to the drive too because it's locked. So no joy. I think that fails to repair because it's locked. You must unlock the drive first and only then you will know. But the tool is reporting that S.M.A.R.T. was not tripped and if the drive were full of bads S.M.A.R.T. ould have been tripped, so my guess is drive is locked and tool can't do anything with a locked drive.
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Image
Spildit wrote:
...the tool is reporting that S.M.A.R.T. was not tripped and if the drive were full of bads S.M.A.R.T. ould have been tripped, so my guess is drive is locked and tool can't do anything with a locked drive.
thanks spildit. now... how do i unlock it :mrgreen: ?
i know about hddunlock.com but is there an alternative where i don't have to shell out a dime? coz really, $15 to unlock is a bit much considering the price of new hdds now..
If you don't care for the data try to secure erase using MHDD and known Master passwords (search this forum).
Do you know how the drive was locked ? If it was working fine and locked by itself you might have firmware issue. If the drive was locked by previose owner or something like a x-box you might want to try default master passwords to unlock it.
If no joy you will need to shell out some money because at least you will need a RS-232 adaptor if you don't want to use another payed service or a pro .....
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okay many thanks. will give em a try now..
oh.. i have no idea how it got locked. i got scammed :lol: stupid me :?
If $15 is more than you're willing to put into this drive you might as well stop now, because you're not going to accomplish anything without at least that much worth of parts and effort.
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You don't have to backup all of your data, just the data you want to keep.
drccsc wrote:
If $15 is more than you're willing to put into this drive you might as well stop now, because you're not going to accomplish anything without at least that much worth of parts and effort.
no offense, but instead of Newing useless comment such that, why don't you help solve the actual issue. or not New at all. besides, not all of us have the money to spare. fyi, i got it fixed without that much worth of parts and effort no thanks to you.
Spildit wrote:
If you don't care for the data try to secure erase using MHDD and known Master passwords (search this forum).
Do you know how the drive was locked ? If it was working fine and locked by itself you might have firmware issue. If the drive was locked by previose owner or something like a x-box you might want to try default master passwords to unlock it.
If no joy you will need to shell out some money because at least you will need a RS-232 adaptor if you don't want to use another payed service or a pro .....
many thanks mate. i followed your first suggestion and it worked.
funny thing is that the master password worked only to unlock the hdd temporarily at first (until next reboot). then i erase the drive which took approx. 8 painfully long hours. and only then i applied the master password again to unlock it for good.
Sigh, you're right, someone told you something to do instead of you making $15 worth of effort to figure it out. So now you have a working drive but didn't learn anything.
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You don't have to backup all of your data, just the data you want to keep.
drccsc wrote:
Sigh, you're right, someone told you something to do instead of you making $15 worth of effort to figure it out. So now you have a working drive but didn't learn anything.
wrong again mate. i learned to use mhdd :mrgreen: though not 100% as i just want a working harddrive, not to be a hdd specialist/technician
@drccsc
as soon as people think that forums are call centers and other work in the call centers for free, why worry? Don't we have something more interesting and worth to do in clean room / lab (paid !) ? Come on, at work ! 8)
Were all gonna see a 'blackheart Data Recovery ' result in google as soon as he gets the right answer... :lol:
hi, I have a ST3120026A in max security mode , but MHDD failed to unlock with the "vendor" password , is there a list of all known master password to test ?
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Please help to unlock ST3120026A in max security mode , lost all pwd, do not care about data, free help welcome ...
