Seagate 120GB ST3120026A PCB : burnt diode? I have a Seagate ST3120026A, 120GB, F8.01. One of the components is burnt. I am looking to replace it if I can identify it. Can anyone identify the component circled in the attached image, and let me know size/rating etc.. thanks, Its a TVS, simply remove it. If you want more info, search this forum for TVS. Hope nothing else is damaged. Best regards, Dobre _________________ Murphy was an optimist Whats the black colored component between the yellow circle and the screw at top right of PCB? Cheers -Al bigal.nz wrote: Whats the black colored component between the yellow circle and the screw at top right of PCB? Cheers -Al Here's a better photo: http://longdata.ru/images/Seagate/ST3120026A_PCB.jpg The component you are referring to is a 12V, 600W, unidirectional TVS diode, marking code BUX, made by ST Microelectronics. The BU? marking code appears to be used by ST Microelectronics in their SMBJ series 600W Transil (TVS) range. The "C" appears to be the manufacturing location, followed by a numeric YWW date code. Here is the datasheet: http://www.st.com/stonline/products/lit ... s/5616.pdf The component circled in yellow is a 5V, 400W, unidirectional TVS diode, marking code QE, made by ON Semiconductor. Its part number is 1SMA5.0AT3. Here is the datasheet: http://www.datasheetarchive.com/pdf-dat ... DSA-4543... ON TVS/Zener Device Data Book: http://www.mosaico-eng.com.br/arquivos/ ... 0Zener.pdf If, for continued protection, you want to replace the diode, try Farnell or RS Components. Look for the SMBJ series (600W) or SMAJ (400W). I have this disk ST3120026A , still need help ? _________________ -- http://rzr.online.fr/q/ata : Please help to unlock ST3120026A in max security mode , lost all pwd, do not care about data, free help welcome ... =========================================================================================== wd2500JD-75HBB0 pcb swap help Hi folks, I have a wd2500JD-75HBB0 that died on me, stopped working , no warning, nothing. It does not show in the BIOS. I have replaced the old PCB. I am getting the drive to spin up and down now but am getting 6 clicks repetively. (4 constant clicks followed by 2 clicks) FYI-I have not swapped the ROM Any suggestions? please. Thank you very much, sammad swap the ROM _________________ PC Image Data Recovery www.pcimage.co.uk Thanks so much for the reply. Can you give me an idea as to how to do this. Im not sure what chip it is and how to de-solder/re-solder it. I have enclosed a picture. Thank you sammad U12 Janos Hello, Can you tell me what chip is the U12 please as well as a technique to get it off and back on please. I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you sammad U12 is the 8 Pins IC _________________ Any intelligent fool can make things bigger, more complex, and more violent. It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction. Got it! Now I see it. Is there a "best way" to do this. What part do I heat to remove this? The legs? The chip? Long story short, Im a novice to soldering, however, I will give it my best. Any help is appreciated. And thanks so much for all the replys! sammad Hi, if you not used to soldering I would suggest you to take the Pcb to a eletronic repair shop and ask them to do the change. Best Regards Bosse mr_spokk wrote: Hi, if you not used to soldering I would suggest you to take the Pcb to a eletronic repair shop and ask them to do the change. Best Regards Bosse Agree with Bosse, if you damage the chip while taking it off, it'll make your recovery a lot, lot more difficult! Where are you based? _________________ PC Image Data Recovery www.pcimage.co.uk I'm in the USA, Pittsburgh Pennsylvania Thank you sammad Just take the PCB to any electronic technician and tell him to replace the new 8 pins IC on the new PCB with the old one on the old PCB _________________ Any intelligent fool can make things bigger, more complex, and more violent. It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction. I will look for an electronic technician. I will New results. Thanks for all the New folks! sammad The ROM swap worked perfectly. A special thanks to harddrivespecialist who provided the PCB as well as the soldering. Very honest and dependable work. I would highly recommend his services to anyone, and I would not hesitate going back to him in time of need, Thank you to everyone who replied to this thread as well. Sammad Is it necessary to swap the ROM in every case of a PCB swap on a wd2500JD-75HBB0? On this model, YES!!! If you do have right software and hardware you can just read than write flash to working lb. Physically moving chip is in need only if lb doesn't respond to data request. Anyway I"m happy for anyone get data back. ________________ Good Luck http://www.datarecovery.net ===========================================================================================Boot Failure- need to extract file from HDD Hi, here is a kind of long saga, though its only been a few days. I put this up on the Lenovo T30 forum but its slow getting info over there, seems most people are into hardware repairs, not issues like this. My IBM T30 laptop (win XP) suddenly stopped booting. The error was something like "we are sorry windows could not start .... unable to mount boot disk...." I got the menu of options- reboot using "safe" mode, reboot using last known good configuration etc.... None of these worked. I always got the same error message. I did not want to use IBM RapidRestore because the backup I have is a little old and I want to recover some newer files before reformatting. I did some searching and found out about the XP repair CD, which did not come with my computer (I bought this computer new and it was preloaded with everything). I searched more and found a link that supposedly had the image of a bootable XP repair CD and booted off of that, but it made things worse. Now the computer will not boot off CD at all. There is no longer an option to start in "safe mode" or any other mode. The errors are Bootup text- ================================================ Intel(R) Boot Agent Version 4.1.07 Copyright (C) 1997-2002, Intel Corporation Intel Base-Code, PXE-2.1 (Build 083) Copyright (C) 1997-2002, Intel Corporation PXE-E61: Media test failure, check cable PXE-M0F: Exiting Intel Boot Agent Operating System Not found ================================================= Here are the IBM Bootup Screen options ================================================= F1 enter IBM Bios setup F11 to invoke product recovery F12 to choose temporary boot device ================================================= F1 works F11 does not work/ no message "starting recovery" and instead you get the same error as #1 F11 used to work before I booted from the supposed 'repair' CD. F12 options ================================================= 1. Removable Devices 3. CD-ROM Drive 4. IBA 4.1.07 Slot 0240 ================================================= I do not think F12 will work as it tends to give the same errors as on bootup and F11. Therefore I cannot successfully boot from CD, I think. What I want to do is recover a few files from the HDD and then reinstall the backup (either HDD backup or from CD-ROM) on another HDD and proceed. I do have a bootable IBM Rapid Restore recovery set of discs and a local backup archive on the problem disc (if IBM rapid restore could be executed); however before reformatting anything I need to extract a few VERy crictical work projects from the hard disk which took me 2 weeks to create. So the tasks are #1- recover some files and #2 reinstall XP. How do I accomplish this? The HDD is a 2.5" PATA. Next, the computer store guy told me PATA and IDE are the same, so I removed the HDD from the laptop and put it into a IDE to USB enclosure. It fits the connector, except that the T30 drive has 4 extra pins that don't connect to anything???? What??? But it kind of works, the Drive "F" is the computer HDD of interest which the 2nd computer tells me needs to be formatted. The drive "G" is the recovery partition which I can see a directory of but which is hard to extract anything out of. Whenever you try to do anything with "F" the OS (Vista) on the new PC will freeze and the program will fail. I've got a repair product but it concedes to the OS that drive "F" needs to be formatted and won't try to make an independent evaluation (supposed to fix/ check it right/?)t. What good is that? help? Man, run Get Data Back on it. Just choose right FS. _________________ Good Luck http://www.datarecovery.net As there is no F12 option to boot from a hdd device I would suggest the hard drive has now failed to a point where it is not seen by the bios. Your biggest mistake was to mess with it whilst it was in the T30 laptop. What you should have done as a minimum is to mount it as a secondry drive and check it in a bootable pc. Then you should have imaged the drive/partition. You might even have been able to grab the most important data with the right tools. It does now look like your tinkering has nearlly killed a failing drive. If the folder is still available then you need to run a software recovery which allows you to change the read retry settings otherwise the system will lock up and maybe you really kill the drive. Recovery is still possible and might still not cost too much. A pro would have to take this on as he would have access to the required tools. john1in2 wrote: except that the T30 drive has 4 extra pins that don't connect to anything???? What??? They're for master/slave config. No connection = master Yes, I am an idiot! I should have let it sit in the IBM and not messed with it all all. I am running getdataback, thanks for the idea as I could not really tell which products to buy from doing searching and going to the computer store. Running getdata back. 1. boot 2nd PC (no network connection) 2. plug in enclosure with problem drive to USB2 socket (right side up!), wait for steady green light. 3. run getdataback, select default option, hit "next" 4. getdataback gives me a list of drives- including problem drive in a popup window. 5. getdataback hangs and does nothing...still trying to find more drives although it found the only 2 in the system. Should I be waiting hours for the list of drives to be populated? Seems it does not know it is done searching for drives. Its not even let me pick a drive at this point. ================================================================================ Samsung HD501LJ cirquit board replacement Hello. Somebody has asked this before here but I'd like to hear some more information. My Samsung HD501LJ suddenly stopped working and one IC burned. There is a hole in it. It is the IC which drives the motor. In working HDD it gets very hot when the drive starts. I bought two of Samsung HD501LJ HDD:s and changed the board. The IC doesn't burn so the motor seems to be OK. But the drive only starts, takes some readings and then it shuts off again. I believe that neither of these boards don't have the right firmware for this drive. How can I check that the board is the right one? What or which IC must be the same and how identical they have to be? There are three IC:s. The one which burned (I hope that this is not the one which has the information needed) and processor IC plus one memory IC. I believe thet the processor IC has the information but not sure. I have some pictures where you see these IC:s and the label of the HDD. Somebody told that the Rev must be the same. And it is, all are Rev. A. Then he says that TW xxx must be the same. But where is that TW-number? On the processor IC there are letters TW but no numbers are following it. And finally, do you think that I could just replace the burned IC? If that doesn't have any information needed, it should work. I know how to do it because I'm electronic maintenance engineer and I have the right tools. The burned IC is on the left upper corner (rotated 45 degrees). Hi, The part of the FW is located in Flash memory inside 88i6725. Locating a compatible PCB is not easy, as the FW rev is not noted anywhere on the drive, nor the PCB. So it is a good idea swapping the motor driver, if u are skilled enough to do that. In this case check the other nearby semiconductor parts like diodes, and that transistor to protect the new motor combo as much u can. Or U may find a company to recover your data for a not too high fee, I suppose it should be not more than 200 eurs, provided that drive internals are not affected. Data Recovery lab (mumbai) _________________ - Data recovery yeah. swap motor chip will be more easy for you. do you have replacement one? _________________ provide entire dirve,PCB,firmware,hard disk accessories. talk to me! Data Recovery service sunnydreamspace@hotmail.com Sometimes the FW version is written on the PCB (e.g. TW100-14) but more often than not it's not, so we have to find it out by hot-swap and reading out data from the SA and interrogating the right module to determine the FW version. Then it's easy to find a compatible donor. This procedure is straightforward if you have the tools and the knowledge, but it's not DIY'able. Data Recovery lab (mumbai) is spot on with the price of around €200, we would charge between £149-£195 for this case. _________________ PC Image Data Recovery www.pcimage.co.uk Under 200 e sounds very reasonable to me. I have asked few places and they told me that it costs around 700-800 euros which is quite a lot of money. I have checked the components around the motor chip and they are OK. I believe that the IC has just burned due to very hot temperature when starting the drive. I thought that I'll take the replacement IC off one of those working drives. Hi all, I'm suffering the same issue, cant figure out yet which chip as fried, although it seems to be 88i6725 but I really have no skills at electronics at all. Anyways, i wanted to have a feedback from the Finnish user here and also maybe to know if samsung is able at least to provide me with what FW my drive as been manufactured with, so i can hopefully find a replacement PCB. Find an attached picture of the drive. Here are the PCBa informations; model: HD501LJ serial: SOMUJ1MP821129 (O might be Zero/0) Rev: REV. A PCBA: BF41-00133A / TRIDENT 11-RE / Rev06 Thanks for your help. best regards, m. I have just had a burnt out chip on my HDD also. Has anyone had any luck retrieving the data from their HDD through any type of operation? The chip that fizzed is the large diagonal one near the Orange ribbon, I have manged to get the USB detection through windows but the drive wont populate its space in the system. I feel that the main Circuit board is definitely dead and i will need to get a replacement.it looks like it is possible to jump start the motor through soldering the 4 main points on the orange ribbon if i had another drive. Any Suggestions? networkpc3000 wrote: yeah. swap motor chip will be more easy for you. do you have replacement one? Guess what? It's going be the only chance. As far as I know. And I do know something. ________________ Good Luck http://www.datarecovery.net r3712 wrote: networkpc3000 wrote: yeah. swap motor chip will be more easy for you. do you have replacement one? Guess what? It's going be the only chance. As far as I know. And I do know something. If i can get my hands on a PCB BF41-00133A TRIDENT 11-RE Rev.06 then i will be fine. I need to find another drive which has it. apparently the 300gb version of samsungs drive is the same PCB. The only wires i would have to solder over would be the orange ribbons right? There is no soldering to do at that cable. You'll see if you remove the pcb its a connector. Dobre _________________ Murphy was an optimist dobrevjetser wrote: There is no soldering to do at that cable. You'll see if you remove the pcb its a connector. Dobre Would anyone here have a PCB I could buy? I do live in Australia and its really hard to find this particular HDD. I called Samsung and it is Discontinued. With the connector, How would i connect the new PCB? does that Black thing just sit over the top and clamp down on the orange ribbon? I'm guessing if i have a replacement PCB it will be very easy to just hook it up and it will work again like normal via that connector? Cheers :D Justin_melb, Just make sure you do no harm with a PCB swap. _________________ Don't gamble with your data! =========================================================================================== Read sectors with ATA password from unlocked drive Hello I'd like to analyze if a specific system is setting a password on the drive in the clear (meaning the password as given in the bios) or if it uses a hash algorithm and sends then the hashed password to the harddisk... I thought easiest to do that would be setting a password on a drive and then read it's sector where the password is stored. Unluckily I'm quite new to MHDD and with the search function I didn't really find anything useful. (All Newings seem to be about how to remove a set password without knowing it, but in this case I know the password and I can unlock the drive...) So basically: 1. Setting Master and User password on the harddrive with high security. 2. Unlock drive with user or master password. 3. Start MHDD and analyze the drive. Now, can the sector where the ATA passwords (User and Master) are stored be read from any of the following drives with MHDD when they're unlocked? - Toshiba MK4025GAS - Western Digital WD2500BEVE - Hitachi HTS54108 I'd also have some even older 3.5" IDE/SATA drives (IBM, HGST, WD, ...) or some newer 2.5" SATA drives (WD, HGST, ...) that I could use for that experiment, but one of the drives above, especially the Toshiba, would be more comfortable. Thanks for all replys. Regards, Moskito ================================================================================= WD5000AAKS-40YGA0 clicking needs help hello guys, my wd drive got a very noisy clicking, it's WD5000AAKS-40YGA0, I performed a PCB swap but it keeps clicking, then I did a head swap, still not recognized, what can be the next possible step to do? Anybody help? _________________ Dream as if you'll Live forever, Live as you'll die today. http://www.datarecoverytools.co.uk =================================================================================== Hitachi DeskStar HDS722516VLAT20 - No Spin - Nothing... Hey - I am new and I am 'just an end-user' - no talent for system fixing or system restore. I've got the above HDD that came from an eMachine. Long story short, the hard drive will not do anything. I began having computer issues, and thought it was my video card. My monitor began giving a display message every now and then suggesting no signal input. I searched high/low on the internet, and was given help on a forum. I purchased a new video card, installed it and still had the issues. Needless to say, the system was 5-6 years old, so when that did not work, and folks began discussing memory and mother boards, I opted to purchase a new system. So, I did that. I also purchased an external HDD USB holder, thinking I would be able to remove my hard drive, put it into the adapter and get my data. I have not backed up in a while. I followed the instructions, and tried the hard drive in the holder. It would not work. I pulled another hard drive from an older system here, and tested the holder. It worked just fine. I tried to put my DeskStar into the older system, and it doesn't work there either. The hard drive appears, for all practical purposes, dead. Does not hummm or do anything. I see nothing wrong with the Processor board and am not too savvy about all this. Am I going to be able to recover anything? I never had any 'lightning', any sparks, any funky sounds, any notification that the hard drive was failing and I am bummed out!! If you give me suggestions, please keep it simple!! Thanks in advance! Take it to a pro. I see many News regarding power supply failures in eMachines. Motherboard damage is often the result. The fact that your drive doesn't spin would suggest a problem with its circuit board. Could you upload a detailed photo of the component side? Perhaps it was overvolted? Thanks for the replies! I will find my camera and take some photos of the HDD. If a pro is suggested, I realize from reading and researching here that names and/or companies are not to be named. However, my hope is someone can PM me and recommend a provider in the US. Is there a limit on the photo size? I've got a couple appts. this AM, but can hopefully New this afternoon. Again, Thanks!! OK - a day later....here are some photos of my hard drive. I did try to upload photos, but they are not here. Did I do something wrong? I guess I'll try again..... I'm no DR guy, but it seems to me that a PCB swap will probably work, as long as you transfer the 8-pin serial EEPROM chip at U5 (L76R) from patient to donor. However, if this were my drive, I would check the onboard supply voltages, and I would verify continuity in the motor windings. There are three zero-ohm links (R25, R29, R4) that arouse my curiosity, too. fzabkar wrote: I'm no DR guy, but it seems to me that a PCB swap will probably work, as long as you transfer the 8-pin serial EEPROM chip at U5 (L76R) from patient to donor. However, if this were my drive, I would check the onboard supply voltages, and I would verify continuity in the motor windings. There are three zero-ohm links (R25, R29, R4) that arouse my curiosity, too. Thank you - I am now going to have to research how to do what you suggest. Are there any other ideas/suggestions/feedback? Thank you! NVRAM got to be transfered or swap will work in very low persentage of success. ================================================================================= Normal Amount of HDD Seek Errors??? I'm not sure if a "normal amount" of seek errors even exists for a drive. My dilemma is, I ran Spinrite on a 60GB Fujitsu 2.5" drive. My results are as follows: I'm pretty sure I'm ok with the ECC Corrections, but I'm not sure if I'm within a normal boundary of seek errors....if there even is one. I ran Fujitsu's testing utility and it passed, finishing the extended scan in 40 minutes. This is a laptop I am checking out for my father with which he is reporting slow boot up performance and occasional freezing. It's an older Dell Inspiron, but I know the tech guy that issued the laptop to him did just perform a clean OS install. These seek errors that Spinrite is reporting are worrying me and I'm wondering if this drive is slowly biting the dust, even though the Fujitsu utility says it's okay. Is there actually a seek error threshold for certain drives, or is my drive needing to be replaced (IMO, there should be no seek errors). I don't understand the "error rates". It appears that ... error rate = error count / 127 So does this mean that the test runs through 127 passes, and that the error rate is the number of errors per pass? If so, then the figure is meaningless. A more meaningful result would be ... error rate = total errors / total operations ie, seek error rate = total seek errors / total seeks Try a SMART diagnostic such as HDDScan, HD Sentinel, or smartmontools. HD Sentinel (DOS / Windows/Linux): http://www.hdsentinel.com/ HDDScan for Windows: http://hddscan.com/ smartmontools (Linux/Windows): http://sourceforge.net/projects/smartmontools/files/ http://sourceforge.net/apps/trac/smartm ... i/Download This program is a drive killer. Use MHDD if you want correct information on this drive. If you want to kill your drive continue to use this program. _________________ Iorana Haraharaini poehere wrote: This program is a drive killer. Use MHDD if you want correct information on this drive. If you want to kill your drive continue to use this program. I understand that many, if not most, of Steve Gibson's claims may be bogus, but yours doesn't make any sense to me either. Can you explain how reading and writing using standard ATA commands can damage a drive? Is it the sheer number and frequency of operations that overstresses the drive? Have you ever been in the middle of imaging a drive when it died? Ok, now imagine that instead of imaging it you're telling it to read and write on known bad sectors with potentially weak or failing heads hundreds of times in a row, on purpose. Wheely34 wrote: My dilemma is, I ran Spinrite on a 60GB Fujitsu 2.5" drive. You're right, that IS a dilemma. _________________ You don't have to backup all of your data, just the data you want to keep. Mounting Partition Manually in a Recovery Tool Need help. I have a drive that I need to copy partitions because its got issues, but with a tools that lets me individually me mount one partition at a time. As one of the issues the drive has when mounting its 7 partitions, is that last partition is corrupted in a way that freezes the drive, so no partition can be read after that point. And yes the drive is one for the now famous Seagate 7200.11 1.5tb drive, but the firmware is CC1H, which is not supposed to have the famous issue. I realize that some people have also complained having the same issue with this firmware, but if possible before updating the firmware, I would like to copy the good partitions. I know that the other partitions are fine and readable because when Windows mounts the drive and then each partition (when connected via USB after booting) Autoplay properly starts searching files, as you can see it searching in each partition, and only freezes when the mounting process gets to the corrupted partition. Once frozen no partition is then readable. In fact the drive is frozen, until you power off completely and restart. All of the recovery tools, non windows based, I have tried, mount all the partitions for a drive at once, and thus freezes the drive after mounting the last partition you select it for copying or recovery. Windows based tools are useless because it will always mount the partitions prior, and the drive will be frozen way before I can run them. So can anybody recommend a non windows based tools that lets you mount drives one at a time, so you can copy them? Based on your description, drive has some other issues, not a Firmware. Probably bad head or a scratch on a surface. _________________ Don't gamble with your data! That may be, but 6 of the 7 partitions are working, I just need to get to them, without it freezing up, when the bad partition is mounted. Once I do that, I will call Seagate for a replacement. I only stated that it might be the firmware bug since its the systoms are identical. The only difference is that it doesn't get stuck in BSY status, and thus is recognized by the BIOS, once I power down. But note that if I don't power down and just reset, the BIOS is unable to see the drive on reNew. Again very similar to the old bug as it seems to be stuck in BSY status in that instance. Now, I know that many Linux distriutions allow/require manual partition mounting/binding for non linux file system drives, as in years past I have done it myself when experimenting with Linux. But I was hoping for a simple recovery tool that does the same without have to build a Linux machine. Also it seems that all Live CD (Bootable) Linux automount for convience, but I am still investingating that fact. If I find a tool, or figure out a workaround, I will New it. Until then, any recommendation would be helpful Hi, sjacas wrote: But I was hoping for a simple recovery tool that does the same without have to build a Linux machine. Also it seems that all Live CD (Bootable) Linux automount for convience, but I am still investingating that fact. Try SystemRescueCD. It does not mount HDDs automatically. http://www.sysresccd.org/Main_Page Hope this helps, Peter also u can use killmbr (or something like that) in MHDD this will deactivate the MBR (delete the 55 aa signature) so partitions are not mounted automatically. Then clone the drive to a known good one and recover data logically from that one. Data Recovery lab (mumbai) _________________ - Data recovery Have you imaged the disk? if not, you should stop and do that first. Have you tried turning off Autoplay/Autorun/Autoinsert Notification? Mr.Data Recovery lab (mumbai) => ( SWITCHMBR ) :) _________________ Any intelligent fool can make things bigger, more complex, and more violent. It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction. Yes, that's it! it was long time ago... Data Recovery lab (mumbai) ================================================================================= TOSHIBA MK1652GSX - cannot access any LBA Hi Gurus! Got some strange Toshiba drive. It came up ready, read ID and when I tried to access any LBA it gave CRC errors only. Many times I got TOSHIBA drives that were acting the same when had problems with G-List. To clear G-List it required terminal connection so i built adapter for PC3000. Saved all CPs but got one error. Then I cleared G-List and now it doesn't even return CRC errors but won't allow any access at all. Could that be caused by erratic CP? Attaching screenshot. DD is P-List, which one is G-List in here? Is it safe to clear P-List on this drive? Thanks, yco. If your performing data recovery, and not just HDD repair, clearing the P list is a terrible idea. Strange that the drive is ID'd correctly by the utility, but further down it's a MK3252GSX. _________________ PC Image Data Recovery www.pcimage.co.uk I noticed that as well. I am guessing that because the translator is corrupted the drive may be reporting as a larger size, and maybe some sort of bug is occuring with pc3k where it assumes it must be a 320GB version of the drive.. i have seen this from time to time ====================================================================================== IBM Ultrastar 9.1GB SCSI 68 PIN Failed after incomplete LLF Hello i need to know if there is a way to bring back this hdd? I started the low level format process in the SCSI controller, but after 1 and half hours the power cord was disconnected by mistake and now it does not start spinning and the controller does not recognizes it. i will appreciate to hear some opinions do i need to send it to the trash can? sorry for the English my native language is Spanish ================================================================== Logic Board HELP! I have tried, and read every forum from here to timbuctwo! I KNOW its a logic board problem, i am looking for a replacement for WD2500JB-00REA0.... but like many before, i am not 100% sure what numbers are needed to match. Does ANYONE have a PCB for this model? :cry: Match the same numbers as the pcb you already have. 2061-701292-xxx ========================================================================== SeDiv - HDD Seagate Terminal for Windows Does anyone know this program ? http://sediv2008.narod.ru/ _________________ Image it is a new software designed for Seagate drive... but U need to pay money to have FULL version..... _________________ ??????? ??????? / ????? Yes. Very good. The program is compiled upon the specific pc where it will run so it is locked to specific machine. I've notice that ;) Is it worth the money ? I have an old ICQ account, i will send a message to the creator and ask the price of the software. _________________ Image If it locks to your pc, can't you just load it on a bartpe bootcd? How much is it? _________________ http://www.hddpros.com Only for professionals. ;) The full version will lock to your PC. It detects the processor, drive, etc ... and locks there. You can use the free version without time limitation but for you to write back the tracks, etc .. to the drives you will need the full version. The full version will work on other machines but it's lock to your machine and if you run on another machines all that the application reads and writes will be encrypted. I will PM you next. _________________ Image Is there an english version of this program? The software is English, the site is not. Direct link for download is : http://sediv2008.narod.ru/Easy1014.rar _________________ Image Spildit wrote: The software is English, the site is not. Direct link for download is : http://sediv2008.narod.ru/Easy1014.rar If I want to buy the software, then how to link to the author of this?? Because I have to stay ICQ ~ he did not respond to price you a rough idea of how much it is going in?? Author e-mail : SeDiv (at) list (dot) ru _________________ Image Has anyone purchased this software? _________________ http://www.hddpros.com Only for professionals. ;) Spildit wrote: You can use the free version without time limitation but for you to write back the tracks, etc .. to the drives you will need the full version. Does this mean that it is completely read-only, in which case I can do no damage to my drive by just experimenting? thatdellguy wrote: Has anyone purchased this software? Yes, I do. Quote: Does this mean that it is completely read-only, in which case I can do no damage to my drive by just experimenting? Is not read only, in free version SDLD is disabled and also some functions too. But you can kill the drive very easy not knowing what you are doing. _________________ S. Karakashev Can it run under linux using wine or vm ? Asking this because i have no windows box is this useful to dump a master passwd on SG disks ? _________________ -- http://rzr.online.fr/q/ata : Please help to unlock ST3120026A in max security mode , lost all pwd, do not care about data, free help welcome ... Nope it require Windows XP SP2. This s very powerful tool, but you have to know how to use it. ================================================================================ Samsung HD501LJ dead, a year of work in risk!!! Hi. This must be a scary day. My main work Hard Disk failed. There is a year of work in there. (Music Production) Today my Samsung HD501LJ died just by plugging it in another computer. I am suspecting o a bad PSU. At first, the CPU would not start. I tried several times until I saw a smoke coming out of the drive. When I stopped the panic attack, analyzed the PCB, and it looks like a resistor or something like that near the power connectors is blown. Now the drive does not spin up. http://barbared.iespana.es/HDD1.JPG Here you can see the damaged part http://barbared.iespana.es/HDD2.JPG This one you can see the little hole in the component I am thinking in buying another drive so I can swap PCBs. I read the other New regarding the issue, however, I do not know if that component is the same "suppressor" you are talking about there. And the fact that the drive has the ROM inside the shell... I hope does not apply Any help would be greatly apprecciated. The picture links didn't work for me. In general, if the part that burned only has 2 leads, and is near the power connector, it's likely it's a surge suppressor. If you're handy with a soldering iron, and don't mind risking a years worth of work, you can try replacing it with one from another drive. Of course, the safest thing to do is take it to a professional. If you decide to do this yourself, take it slow, and ask on here about any questions. For God sake, don't open the drive! I think, from what I have read in this forums that the damaged part we are talking is the same. I think its called the Voltage Transient suppressor (VTS). Somewhere I read that can be bypassed, but I really dont want to risk the little chip next to it. I had to examine it with a magnifying glass to find it has a clear sign of burn (a hole on the top) and the green coating of the PCB surrounding it looks different that the rest of resistors. Also, I found some numbers written over it (000), that I would love to understand. I want you people to see the pictures, that server is down, so I am attaching them. If you people know about the possible causes, I would love to know, so this would not happen again! It seems to me that it is a fuse or low-ohm resistor that has blown. The cause can be a short circuit in one of the VDR's next to it. You'd better measure this out before replacing the fuse. Dobre _________________ Murphy was an optimist Can you give me some directions? I have my multimeter at hand. Do you know the specs of the damaged component? It has three zeros on top. (000) Is it easy to find in another disk for spare? The spec for a 000 is a jumper. It's a Zero Ohm resistor. They are sometimes used to jump over a trace, or likely in this instance used as a crude fuse. If you're feeling brave or lucky, you could replace it with a piece of wire, although I'd use thin wire that might act as a fuse. You could also wire up a 2 or 3 Amp car fuse, which will look ugly, but should work, and might be safer. Also, as Dobre said, check for shorts first. Thanks for the info, guys. I checked for shorts as Dobre said, and I did not find anything unusual. I am suspecting seriously about that being a bad PSU (chinese made "delux" brand), since my disk was in my computer for very long without failing. (enermax PSU) I am handy with a soldering iron, however, I would love to replace the component with another of the same specs, just for mental peace. Do you know if its easy to find? or should I use another from a hard disk? As for the car fuse solution, it is pretty clever! I would love to have a little more detail into this, since I have seen a lot of types of car fuses. Some in a tubular shape, some in a "H" shape. It is likely a PS issue. A few years ago, I made a list of great, good, and crap PS brands, and I never even heard of delux. Without a short, the jumper likely wouldn't burn without a PS issue. Getting the exact part from an Electronics supply house will be difficult, as the manufacturer and model number is important, but hard to find on a Surface Mount device. 0 Ohm means just a jumper, but one jumper might handle 2 Amps, and another might handle 20 Amps. By far the easiest way to replace the jumper with a part that looks like the original is with a part from a junk drive. Not all drives have jumpers. Some have real fuses, and most also have TVS devices. As for car fuses, You could really use any physical size fuse, but a small blade type might be easier to mount. What's important is the rating. I'm guessing 2 or 3 amps would do. Too low, and it will blow, too high, and it won't even if it should. Just make sure it's a fast blow. If it makes you feel better, the factory might use a 0 ohm jumper one week, and a real fuse the next. Specifications change based on what's cheap at the moment, and who wins the Engineers-Vs-Bean Counters battle. Also, based on your desscription, there's a possibility a defective component might not show up as a short, but draw a lot of current when powered. You might be much safer with a real fuse, instead of a Jumper used as a fuse. It will be better to start with a lower value, and move up in value if needed. If this is done wrong, you may smoke the board, and this all becomes harder. Can you please give me some advice on where am I most likely to check for shorts? I did it and did not find anything. I am attaching an image of the PSU just for the record...And for people to know... There may be no shorts. When I mentioned a PS issue, I meant the power supply is likely putting out too high a voltage, which could potentialy damage other components on the board. Hopefully the TVS protected everything (It acts like a short when the voltage is too high, which is probably why the jumper burned). An obvious thing to mention is that you should use a different PS, preferably another computer where you know the PS is good. It's rare, but if you pop a new PS in the case, it might just be bad... barbaroja wrote: Can you please give me some advice on where am I most likely to check for shorts? I did it and did not find anything. I am attaching an image of the PSU just for the record...And for people to know... Never, ever buy something that says "DELUXE" !!!! It normally isn't... Duncan Due to this specs, what would be the suggested fuse? Still 2 to 3 Amps? Extracted from Samsung tech service: Power Requirenents Voltage +12V±10% Spin-up Current 2,000 mA Seek 10.6 W Read/Write 10.0 W Idle 8.2 W Standy 0.7 W Sleep 0.7 W If the drive draws 10W when its reading, and I put a 3 amp fuse, should it blow? Whats the best to look for in the specifications of a new psu, to ensure its a good one. Or can it not be found out this way. I am trying to find the damaged component, but is a hard task. Thats why I am considering the car fuse option. Personally, I'd start with a 2 amp. If it works for a while and blows, then up it to 3 amps. If a 2 amp, or especially a 3 amp immediately blows, it indicates a problem with the board. If you want to be real cautious, you could start with a 1 Amp, but it's probably not needed. If it draws 10W while reading, a 3 Amp fuse shouldn't blow. 10W on the +5 line is 2 Amps. I checked a Maxtor disk and it has two very similar components marked "0" near the power connector. I am guessing it is the same piece. ¿Am I right? ¿May I use this piece? You could. '0' and '000' are both used on surface mount parts as 0 Ohm jumpers. Personally, I'd still use a fuse over a jumper to start with. If everything is OK, a jumper would be good if you want to return the drive to service. rchadwick wrote: You could. '0' and '000' are both used on surface mount parts as 0 Ohm jumpers. Personally, I'd still use a fuse over a jumper to start with. If everything is OK, a jumper would be good if you want to return the drive to service. ¿Do you know if these jumpers have different specs? Well, that's the problem. It's purpose is simply to act as a short. It's only visible spec is that it is a 'resistor' with 0 ohms resistance, which is electrically the same as a piece of wire. One model or brand of 0 ohm jumper might burn up at 5 amps, and another at 20. Yet, they are used as a fuse in this case. A fuse is designed to precisely blow at a specific current. I'm guessing jumpers are cheaper than real fuses, which is why they are used. What I'm trying to say is that a 0 ohm jumper is a poor excuse for a fuse. If you want the drive to look the same, and you've finished the recovery, you'll probably be fine with a jumper. If you want to do the safest thing while recovering your data, use a real fuse. If you're thinking the best part to use, no matter what the part or circumstance, would be exactly what the factory used, you would be absolutely wrong. If you want to be really nutty about it, take one of those 0 ohm jumpers used as a fuse, put it across a variable power supply, and crank up the current until it opens. Then, you'll know what current it's 'rated' for. If you use a lower current fuse, the only danger is that it might blow, and you'll need to replace it. The rest of the PCB will be fine. If you use too high of a fuse, then it could damage the PCB. Again, the problem is the 0 Ohm jumper has no real spec on what current it opens up at. I suppose the Engineers figured it was better than nothing, and it is, but a real fuse is much better. Again, I'm not sure how to make this any clearer.. The ONLY specification of a 0 ohm jumper is that it's resistance is close to 0 ohms. If you can somehow track down the manufacturer, and the specific model, you might find a datasheet that MIGHT mention how much current it can handle. However, fuses are specifically designed to open up at a specific current, within a specified amount of time, and to do that reliably. A Jumper might open up too slow, or maybe open up, and then short again, or perhaps 2 different jumpers of the same model will open at 3, and at 6 Amps. It wasn't designed to be a fuse. It's like pouring Vodka in your gas tank. It MIGHT run your car, but don't count on it.