Hard disk ticking noise.
My hard disk makes a weird ticking noise and i cant do anything for 5-10 seconds.
It all started when the dude that repairs my computer pulled out my old ram to check it so he can buy a new one. When he put the ram back he powered on my computer and i've heard that ticking noise. I had 512 (2x256) RAM. I succesfully upgraded my PC to 2 GB (2x1 GB) of ram.
But it's really annoying when i'm trying to animate in flash and that ticking noise shows up. As i said before i can't do anything for a few seconds.
Is there a way to fix this? Or i got to replace my hard disk?
Hello,
Your hdd is dieing.
Get all of your data to another new drive, and drop this away, before you loose everithing!
Janos
============================================================================
Locked WD1200BEVS need help
I have a friends Dell Inspiron that has suddenly started showing the Dell white screen "drive is locked, enter password" before it boots. She has no idea what the password would be and no idea how to even set one up on it. It just "started happening" I was told. I know for sure she doesn't even know how to get into the BIOS to set it. I've tried using mhdd, but the drive never shows up. I've ran mhdd with /enableprimary (seeing as how the drive should be the primary in the laptop), but the drive still doesn't show up. I'm not sure how to use "zu". Can anyone help me out?
For starters you probably need to change the setting from AHCI to IDE in the BIOS. Probably this is what is preventing you from seeing the drive in MHDD. Alternatively you could just hook the drive up to a separate computer.
_________________
You don't have to backup all of your data, just the data you want to keep.
I've hooked it up to another laptop with a sata to usb adapter. Maybe I can finally make some progress. I'll New back a bit later.
That will still not allow you to access it with MHDD or anything else that does low level operations
_________________
You don't have to backup all of your data, just the data you want to keep.
Without the password you will need special tools to remove the lock from the hard drive. You will not have any access to the data while it is locked no matter what you hook it up to.
I understand I can not access the files on the drive until it is unlocked. I was hoping to try to use mhdd to find out the password using the various scripts I have seen. The biggest issue I've had is getting the drive to even show up in mhdd. Seeing that it is a sata drive I had a SATA to usb adapter and so far that lets mhdd see it. I'm using the magic boot disk that emulates the usb as scsi. But the unlock command says it only works for IDE.
Now that I can at least see the drive in mhdd, I'll switch to using my desktop PC and see if I can hook it up directly and proceed from there.
Now I may finally be getting somewhere. I have the drive hooked up directly to my desktop pc. In the BIOS I have set SATA as IDE in compatible mode. I am booting off a usb thumbstick, and running MHDD 4.5. The drive is found properly and reports as Security: high, on. I've executed the following script:
Code:
; rm modul id 42
reset
waitnbsy
regs = $57 $44 $43 $00 $00 $a0 $8a
waitnbsy
regs = $00 $02 $00 $00 $0F $E0 $21
waitnbsy
checkdrq
sectorsto = 42.bin
; End.
I get an error on line 7
Code:
ERROR: No DRQ
... and I do not get the 42.bin file.
I am pretty sure MHDD will not show you the password nor will it unlock for you. The drive will work and ID correctly, just the sectors are locked from reading.
You need to get access to the service area of the drive to unlock the drive and MHDD will most likely not be able to do that for you.
That script is intended for drives of an older architecture than the one you have
_________________
You don't have to backup all of your data, just the data you want to keep.
To unlock drive you got to deal with security module in System Track. Not a lot of data recovery companies can do that.
_________________
Good Luck
http://www.datarecovery.net
I can think of a lot of things more difficult than getting a password off of a Western Digital. But maybe thats just me.
Also, "security module in system track"? Are you sure you're thinking about the right kind of drive here?
_________________
You don't have to backup all of your data, just the data you want to keep.
Okay, how about this script:
Code:
;
; MHDD TERMINAL: Sample scripting batch and documentation
; Please also look at "STEST" for SCSI commands
; and "IDESCAN" for an advanced example
reset
waitnbsy
regs = $45 $0b $00 $44 $57 $a0 $80
waitnbsy
regs = $d6 $01 $be $4f $c2 $a0 $b0
waitnbsy
checkdrq
sectorsfrom = cs.bin
regs = $d5 $01 $bf $4f $c2 $a0 $b0
waitnbsy
checkdrq
sectorsto = 21.bin
regs = $d5 $01 $bf $4f $c2 $a0 $b0
waitnbsy
checkdrq
sectorsto = 22.bin
; end
It completes and the 22.bin file I get reads;
Code:
Offset 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 A B C D E F
00000000 00 00 00 01 0E 00 00 00 02 02 00 0F 32 0C CA FA ............2.Êú
00000010 0A 32 0A 01 41 46 05 01 00 00 20 00 00 00 00 01 .2..AF.... .....
00000020 60 02 12 00 22 00 0A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 `..."...........
00000030 00 00 00 01 E0 01 0F 0F 01 02 02 0A 01 01 01 02 ....à...........
00000040 02 0C 01 00 FF FF 02 03 50 01 1E 01 01 01 04 00 ....ÿÿ..P.......
00000050 00 00 01 00 00 00 00 05 00 00 00 00 00 FF FF 00 .............ÿÿ.
00000060 00 00 00 12 0A 12 00 00 00 05 00 00 00 00 00 1E ................
00000070 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 4D 00 24 00 07 00 12 .........M.$....
00000080 00 00 00 00 0E 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 01 00 00 00 ................
00000090 00 00 00 07 00 01 02 0D 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 ................
000000A0 00 01 03 00 03 01 00 01 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 ................
000000B0 00 00 00 00 00 01 57 44 43 20 57 44 31 32 30 30 ......WDC WD1200
000000C0 42 45 56 53 2D 37 35 4C 41 54 30 20 20 20 00 00 BEVS-75LAT0 ..
000000D0 00 00 00 00 00 01 53 7C 42 7C 4C 7C 50 7C 4D 47 ......S|B|L|P|MG
000000E0 48 54 43 55 52 45 56 5A 4B 4D 55 4A 00 20 20 20 HTCUREVZKMUJ.
000000F0 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 30 38 2D 31 30 2D 08-10-
00000100 32 30 30 36 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 2006............
00000110 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 ................
00000120 00 01 07 00 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 00 00 00 00 ................
00000130 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 ................
00000140 00 00 00 00 17 1E 21 06 22 24 14 18 00 00 00 00 ......!."$......
00000150 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 ................
00000160 00 00 00 00 08 00 FE FF 00 00 00 00 00 01 30 00 ......þÿ......0.
00000170 00 1E 00 2C 01 14 01 00 00 00 00 00 00 01 02 00 ...,............
00000180 40 00 2C 01 32 00 20 00 55 FF 00 00 00 00 00 01 @.,.2. .Uÿ......
00000190 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 ................
000001A0 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 58 58 58 58 58 58 58 58 ........XXXXXXXX
000001B0 58 58 58 58 58 58 58 58 58 58 58 58 58 58 58 58 XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
000001C0 58 58 58 58 58 58 58 58 58 58 58 58 58 58 58 58 XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
000001D0 58 58 58 58 58 58 58 58 01 01 01 01 01 00 00 00 XXXXXXXX........
000001E0 00 00 00 00 00 01 31 00 00 00 00 01 21 00 00 00 ......1.....!...
000001F0 00 01 11 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 ................
The just looks like the ID sector to me, not the security module
Where in the US are you located? You can PM me if you would like me to unlock, it will cost though (not an arm and a leg)
Drive is now UNLOCKED! Master password was in the .bin file. Thanks to News in other threads I figured out where to look and how to translate it for entering into mhdd. Crisis adverted! The filesystem had some issues and it looks like the drive is going south. Maybe the locking came upon as a symptom of a failing drive (not that I've ever heard of such a thing). Now I'll just backup the data and recommend replacing the drive. Can a forum moderator edit the thread title to reflect it is has been fixed?
Good job working it out.
_________________
You don't have to backup all of your data, just the data you want to keep.
kricker wrote:
Drive is now UNLOCKED! ...Maybe the locking came upon as a symptom of a failing drive (not that I've ever heard of such a thing).
Congratulations! I have )))
_________________
Good Luck
http://www.datarecovery.net
I forgot to point to one thing - if HDD will lock itself there is no way to find a password. So based of information given I was talking about this very case.
_________________
Good Luck
http://www.datarecovery.net
I think it did lock itself, but using the "Master" password I was able to unlock it. The user password was a bunch of strange characters, but it worked.
===============================================================================
WD400 spins up but keeps being idle
Hi,
I've just found my old, broken WD400BB hard drive and thought I'd give it a try.
The hard drive spins up, gets recognised by the bios and the operating system but sadly that's all it does. When trying to read data from the device in Linux I wound up with about 40GBs of zeros (there is something else at the start of the file, I can't make out what it is, though).
Here's what happens when I plug the hard drive into an usb enclosure:
Afterwards I hooked it up to an IDE port of another machine and gave MHDD a run. S.M.A.R.T. isn't working and MHDD generates "S" errors only. I've attached 3 pictures of the bios and MHDD recognising the hard drive. I also attached a picture of the errors shown in MHDD.
Additionally I recorded the sounds my hard drive is making when starting, trying to read something and stopping. The sounds coming from the hard drive when reading is most noticeable when reading lower sectors and gets more and more quiet when reading higher sectors.
I'm new to all this hard drive repairing stuff and to this forum and just trying to provide you with as much information I can get. Can you make any useful assumptions out of this? The MHDD FAQ says, that in case MHDD reports 100% bad blocks "it is either a head crash, pcb damage or firmware issue".
Probably translator problem, U need pro help.
"no user servicable parts inside" :)
Data Recovery lab (mumbai)
_________________
- Data recovery
It's a PCB and Translator problem I think.
The drive not recognized correctly.
replace PCB and free HDD_Repair software may solve your problem
Good luck
_________________
Any intelligent fool can make things bigger, more complex, and more violent. It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction.
I wouldn't think it's a PCB probem at ll, it's almost certainly a translator issue like Data Recovery lab (mumbai) says IMHO.
Doubtfull HDD_Repair would be able to fix this, use this at your peril.
If you just want to repair the drive then by all means give it a whirl, but if you need the data then do not attempt the repair yourself.
_________________
PC Image Data Recovery
www.pcimage.co.uk
First of all thank you for your advice so far.
It'd be cool to get data off of the hard drive, but honestly I don't even know what's on it anymore.
Data recovery is expensive, but exploring files dating back 8 years would be cool. It's kind of like a time capsule :D
So let's try something harmless first: Just in case the assumption that the PCB is faulty is true the PCB of my hard drive should not work in another hard drive and show similar problems, right? If yes: Which components of the PCB do I have to switch? My guess is the U2 chip, a picture of the same PCB layout I have is in this thread: wtb-wd400bb-hard-drive-for-head-swap-t13564.html?hilit=wd400bb%20swap#p90678
Where can I find this HDD_Repair tool? And is there a manual available? Google didn't provide me with any useful search results.
http://files.Hard Disk Recovery Lab.com/download/Softw ... pair.v2.0/
Good luck
_________________
Any intelligent fool can make things bigger, more complex, and more violent. It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction.
PelzigesOhr wrote:
Data recovery is expensive
Have you had a quote?
==================================================================================
WD10EAVS 1.0 TB
My WD10EAVS has got some overvoltage (20V instead of 12V). :(
Where can I get a new pcb for it ?
Heinz
Have the PCB get burned ?
New a picture, to see the damadge if visible.
_________________
ZeBong
no, nothing to see, but the HDD don't work
USB Case is ok, power supply is ok
Maybe chip on block-heads (inside HDD) is damage!! Check it.
1583 wrote:
Maybe chip on block-heads (inside HDD) is damage!! Check it.
do not do that.
________________
ZeBong
Don't open your drive in any circumstances!
Does your drive spin up? Makes any noises?
_________________
Don't gamble with your data!
the HDD is dead
heinzrm wrote:
the HDD is dead
Is your data Important ?
Read THIS :
http://forum.Hard Disk Recovery Lab.com/diy-what-the-big-deal-t12671.html
_________________
ZeBong
heinzrm wrote:
the HDD is dead
PCB replacement would be a good start, but this model has unique adaptive data stored in processor.
Start by searching TVS chip on this forum.
Do some tests and report your results here.
_________________
Don't gamble with your data!
If you want someone to help you, New a photo of the component side of your PCB.
zebong wrote:
1583 wrote:
Maybe chip on block-heads (inside HDD) is damage!! Check it.
do not do that.
I mean Check it with analyser!!!
do you want to repair the drive or do you need the data ?
i am in germany maybe i can help. i have two of these drives with working pcb's. anyway Newing a photo of hdd's top cover and both sides of pcb does help.
hi i have just finished Newing a new topic on the same wd drive. swersig could you tell me if a replacement would work..? you have one..?
well simon75, cant find your new New...
you cant just replace the damaged pcb with any 'looking the same'. you have to make sure that flashed part of firmware on replacement pcb matches firmware on patient platters and of course you have to use the adaptives from the patient drive if possible. so there are two ways:
1.repair the damaged pcb
2.get flash rom content from damaged pcb and write it to another electrical compatible pcb.
solution 1 is often quite simple if only tvs are damaged and the preamp inside the disk is ok but it can be challenging and you may need to know some things about electrics.
if solution 1 does not work you can try solution 2. often you can read the flash rom of damaged pcb with external reader but the pcb needs to have an isolated rom chip (not the case with this disk).
in any case you have to make sure that the preamp is ok otherwise you may damage the replacement pcb and you start all over again. and a defective preamp CAN DAMAGE the data on your defective disk further making it harder if not impossible for a pro to recover your data.
if you managed to get a working pcb but the drive does not id and/or makes strange sounds its definetively a case for a pro and you shouldnt power it on any more.
hope this helps a little...
ps
i have two of these disks (see other topic) with working pcbs but other defects. they are most likely not compatible because there seem to be many different firmware versions for this disk and of course because of the adaptives. i could use my pcbs for building a donor this is why i mentioned it to heinzrm who like me lives in germany. i think there are people living/working more closely to you on this forum.
swersig wrote:
well simon75, cant find your new New...
you cant just replace the damaged pcb with any 'looking the same'. you have to make sure that flashed part of firmware on replacement pcb matches firmware on patient platters and of course you have to use the adaptives from the patient drive if possible. so there are two ways:
1.repair the damaged pcb
2.get flash rom content from damaged pcb and write it to another electrical compatible pcb.
solution 1 is often quite simple if only tvs are damaged and the preamp inside the disk is ok but it can be challenging and you may need to know some things about electrics.
if solution 1 does not work you can try solution 2. often you can read the flash rom of damaged pcb with external reader but the pcb needs to have an isolated rom chip (not the case with this disk).
in any case you have to make sure that the preamp is ok otherwise you may damage the replacement pcb and you start all over again. and a defective preamp CAN DAMAGE the data on your defective disk further making it harder if not impossible for a pro to recover your data.
if you managed to get a working pcb but the drive does not id and/or makes strange sounds its definetively a case for a pro and you shouldnt power it on any more.
hope this helps a little...
ps
i have two of these disks (see other topic) with working pcbs but other defects. they are most likely not compatible because there seem to be many different firmware versions for this disk and of course because of the adaptives. i could use my pcbs for building a donor this is why i mentioned it to heinzrm who like me lives in germany. i think there are people living/working more closely to you on this forum.
thanks for the reply. i am trying to look for the tvs('s) now and i cant locate them ill take a picture and New it on my thread. i think admin is checking it before publishing. ??? as i only Newed it a couple of hours or so ago. i think the first thing to do is to locate the tvs and then check its resistance. anyone interested please from now refer to my thread. so sorry for hijacking this topic but it just looked like a good place to start..
many thanks swersig
swersig,
I will remove the pcb and scan in both sides and the HDD cover.
I need the datas. My complete bookkeeping is on it, many files of clients (web design), and some other very private files (750 GB). So I don't want to give the drive into other's hands.
When I can rerun the drive, I will backup all files to another computer.
Heinz
well its your choice and i can understand if you dont want to give your drive away. you have a good chance for recovery if it is only damaged tvs otherwise you WILL HAVE to give your drive to a pro since any tingering makes the situation worse. this should be no problem since any GOOD dr company consideres private data private (take a look at the contract). you should only find one with a good reputation. if you change your mind or need help on the pcb just say so.
happy new year,
swersig
It took some time to remove the pcb - no tools ...
Now I scanned the hdd cover and both sides of the pcb.
You can dowenload it from
http://www.enp-beratung.de/downloads/WD10EAVS_1TB.pdf
Once again : the hdd got some overvoltage. 20V instead of 12V
The contacts from pcb to hdd are a little colored ...
Heinz
Check R64 and R67; probably one of them (or both) are open circuit.
Check D4 and D3; they could be short-circuited.
If so, replacing them COULD help, but it could also destroy more and make the recovery much harder.
Since it is your data, you decide :wink:
Dobre
Seagate help !!!
Help... hello all, i have a problem but dont think any one will be able to help, i have a seagate ST3100333AS with firmware LC15 the drive was working after resetting the pcb from the busy state but i havent been able to find a firmware up date as this drive used to be in a lacie enclosure, so on your site i found the ad14 firmware which i thought i would stupidly try..... we all looked good untill about 95% of the way and it came up unable to reset drive and to restart my pc.. not the drive wont even spin up and i cant comunicate with the pcb ether any idears or should i just bin it now ?
I do not think so, only it'll cost you more.
_________________
Good Luck
http://www.datarecovery.net
It's too late now, but here is the update you should have used:
http://www.seagate.com/staticfiles/supp ... H-SD1B.ISO
http://www.seagate.com/staticfiles/supp ... r-sd1b.exe
Here is a configuration file that checks your original model and firmware version for compatibility with the upgrade:
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/BR-SD1B.TXT
This is the relevant line:
ST31000333AS BR120B.LCD1.BP0P0A.LC15.B0A3 6HSD1B.LOD BR120B.SDD1.BX0R0A.SD1B.B0C4
so there is nothing i can do ?..... expensive paper weight... wow am i dumb >.<
what about finding a pbc board of a simular model hdd would that work ?....
Contact PCIMAGE (with PM in this forum) - he is a pro in UK and might help you
and has fair prices too
Either try this or forget that drive.
You made problems worse than they where - you overwrote the system
files of your drive - how the hack should a pcb change help in such a case?
Its like a broken motor in a car - why should it work again when you change
the back lights?
3 choices:
important data = contact a pro
important data but no money = store hard disk on a save place and spare money
no important data = do with the drive whatever you like
===================================================================================
Adaptive ROMs
I'm on my personal research kick, I looked around (though probably not hard enough) for which brand and size (3.5" 2.5") drives have an adaptive ROM that must be switched, and how I can identify it, could anyone point me to News that would answer my question or help me out?
Thanks guys,
Xander Sholtz
You should define your terms.
To me, an adaptive ROM means one that is tailored to a specific hard drive. Like Seagate 7200.11 ROMs. Or WD Royal 3.5" family firmware. Or Toshiba 2.5's.
Yet some drives may have the same ROM version, but different head maps, depending upon the manufacturer's whims. Are those considered adaptive, too?
IMHO, not everything can be reduced to a black-or-white list of adaptive vs. non-adaptive.
There is plenty of info for you to glean in this forum. But you have to dig for it. Probably by yourself.
jono-ats wrote:
You should define your terms.
To me, an adaptive ROM means one that is tailored to a specific hard drive. Like Seagate 7200.11 ROMs. Or WD Royal 3.5" family firmware. Or Toshiba 2.5's.
Yet some drives may have the same ROM version, but different head maps, depending upon the manufacturer's whims. Are those considered adaptive, too?
IMHO, not everything can be reduced to a black-or-white list of adaptive vs. non-adaptive.
There is plenty of info for you to glean in this forum. But you have to dig for it. Probably by yourself.
I can see how my question was vague, to clarify what I was looking for was a listing of which drives need a ROM switch with PCB switch. I will take your advice and "dig" for the answer I am looking for,
I am doing everything I can so one day I can be a (one day) contributor here.
There is no need for additional response on this topic contributors.
===============================================================================
WD3200bevs ATA Protected
i have a western digital wd3200bevs 320 gb hdd that is now locked by ata password
i have tried using hdat2 and mhdd but they both mhdd fails and hdat2 aborts
i have tried using the master password WDCWDCWDCWDCWDCWDCWDCWDCWDCWDCWD in both programs and in lower and upper case but it dont work
can anyone suggest what i can do to get my hdd usable again?
No.
I definitely wouldn't suggest searching on this topic and reading one of the eighteen threads about it where it is spelled out step by step over and over again for people who have trouble following directions.
_________________
You don't have to backup all of your data, just the data you want to keep.
I Have Tried Using Hdderase And Left It Going Over Night And It Still Failed
================================================================================
WD PC Board Parts
Greetings to All,
I have 2 WD HD's that were involved in a PSU failure.
On both PC boards the U1 chips were cooked.
The first drive is a WD 1600 drive
MDL: WD1600JB-00GVA0
DCM: HSCHNT2AH
U1 CHIP INFO:SMOOTH L2683 1.3, ....D VH, 99 302, ST E (I can't identify the info before the "D" due to the chip being burned)
The second drive is a WD 2500JB
MDL: WD2500JB-00REA0
DCM: DSBHCTJCH
U1 CHIP INFO: SMOOTHL6283 1.3, 99213 VH, 99 615, ST e3 in a circle.
Questions:
What is the U1 chip for and/or what does it control?
Can I purchase the chip to replace them on the board to try to get these drives up and running to retrieve the data?
If so where can the chips be purchased and about how much should they cost.
Please note that on the attached photo the board on the left is the WD1600 PC board and the board on the right is the WD2500JB PC Board.
Thanks for any help you may be able to give me.
Don
It's the motor combo chip - it communicates with the CPU via serial lines and controls the spindle motor, the voice coil motor and usually generates some auxilliary voltages. Chances are that more parts are blown, including the CPU (one board has external flash ROM with needs to be swapped onto a replacement PCB) and probably the head preamplifier within the HDA.
Shaun,
Not what I wanted to hear :( . I was hoping that I could just change out the chips and be able to retrieve the data. When you say swap the rom chip I assume that you are referring to U12. Both boards have the U12 chips on them.
I guess the next question is where do I get replacement boards to change the ROM chips to so I can see if the head preamp. is fried as well?
Thanks for the response,
Don
U need the following:
701265 PCB for the GV
701292 PCB for the RE
then swap U12.
Data Recovery lab (mumbai)
_________________
- Data recovery
Data Recovery lab (mumbai),
Thanks Again for your help and information! :D :D
I have a few questions.
Where can I get the PCB you have indicated?
Also what are the chances that the head Preamps are bad?
The changing of the ROM chips is an non-issue.
By the way I read the link you suggested along with info from other sites and forums and see what you were referring to with regards to opening the drives to replace the platters. :wink:
Thanks,
Don
If you do all suggested and chip will blow again - it's preamp.
================================================================================
Please, I need firmware.
Hi, from argentina. byes
S/N:WCAMC1651081
P/N:WD400BB-00JHA0
you are walking on the wrong direction, i think....
======================================================
ST360020A spins up, no access
The other drive sitting here is a Seagate ST360020A. It spins up normally, seems to init and then waits for eternity.
Tomorrow I'll check whether it becomes RDY and as what it identifies itself. The Firmware is 3.39, is there anything bad to expect..?
Do these Seagate have a serial terminal which is as useful as the terminal of the new ones?
I gave it a try with MHDD: permanently BSY. For a head or SA fault I'd have expected it to knock, a terminal connection would probably clarify things.
yes, New terminal log
_________________
- Data recovery
CE Log issue?
Here we go - the drive is jumpered as "single or master".
Intf tsk rst 1024k x 16 buffer detected
Ref 010D - Hd Msk 0A00 - Switch to full int.
Ready
ATRst
U6 - ST360020A(S),03.39
.PHMstr with Non-conform'gSlv
AT Er 00 Nwt Er 37 RdWr 09e6.02.0152
ATA St d0 Er 00 Op c8 e, 05fea97,08 04 03
Niwot: 005fea97 36 09e6.2.14f 8000 07c0 0240 0000
W0,LBA S005fea97,E=005fea9a,H07c3, Serr=07C3
AT Er 00 Nwt Er 43 RdWr 0071.00.002d
ATA St d0 Er 40 Op c8 e, 05fea97,08 04 03
Niwot: ffffffff 2e 0000.7.837 07c3 09e6 2152 ea9a
ATRst
HMstr with Non-conform'gATRst
HMstr with Non-conform'gATRst
(repeating from HMstr with Non....)
Thats a wierd error with U6 .
Yeah :)
Anyone who ever fixed it?
No one..?
========================================================
SeDiv - HDD Seagate Terminal for Windows
Does anyone know this program ?
http://sediv2008.narod.ru/
_________________
Image
it is a new software designed for Seagate drive... but U need to pay money to have FULL version.....
_________________
???????
??????? / ?????
Yes. Very good. The program is compiled upon the specific pc where it will run so it is locked to specific machine.
I've notice that ;)
Is it worth the money ? I have an old ICQ account, i will send a message to the creator and ask the price of the software.
_________________
Image
If it locks to your pc, can't you just load it on a bartpe bootcd? How much is it?
_________________
http://www.hddpros.com
Only for professionals. ;)
The full version will lock to your PC. It detects the processor, drive, etc ... and locks there. You can use the free version without time limitation but for you to write back the tracks, etc .. to the drives you will need the full version.
The full version will work on other machines but it's lock to your machine and if you run on another machines all that the application reads and writes will be encrypted.
I will PM you next.
_________________
Image
Is there an english version of this program?
The software is English, the site is not.
Direct link for download is :
http://sediv2008.narod.ru/Easy1014.rar
_________________
Image
Spildit wrote:
The software is English, the site is not.
Direct link for download is :
http://sediv2008.narod.ru/Easy1014.rar
If I want to buy the software, then how to link to the author of this?? Because I have to stay ICQ ~ he did not respond to price you a rough idea of how much it is going in??
Author e-mail : SeDiv (at) list (dot) ru
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Image
Has anyone purchased this software?
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http://www.hddpros.com
Only for professionals. ;)
Spildit wrote:
You can use the free version without time limitation but for you to write back the tracks, etc .. to the drives you will need the full version.
Does this mean that it is completely read-only, in which case I can do no damage to my drive by just experimenting?
thatdellguy wrote:
Has anyone purchased this software?
Yes, I do.
Quote:
Does this mean that it is completely read-only, in which case I can do no damage to my drive by just experimenting?
Is not read only, in free version SDLD is disabled and also some functions too. But you can kill the drive very easy not knowing what you are doing.
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S. Karakashev
Can it run under linux using wine or vm ?
Asking this because i have no windows box
is this useful to dump a master passwd on SG disks ?
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http://rzr.online.fr/q/ata :
Please help to unlock ST3120026A in max security mode , lost all pwd, do not care about data, free help welcome ...
Nope it require Windows XP SP2.
This s very powerful tool, but you have to know how to use it.
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S. Karakashev
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Samsung HD501LJ dead, a year of work in risk!!!
Hi.
This must be a scary day. My main work Hard Disk failed. There is a year of work in there. (Music Production)
Today my Samsung HD501LJ died just by plugging it in another computer. I am suspecting o a bad PSU. At first, the CPU would not start. I tried several times until I saw a smoke coming out of the drive. When I stopped the panic attack, analyzed the PCB, and it looks like a resistor or something like that near the power connectors is blown. Now the drive does not spin up.
http://barbared.iespana.es/HDD1.JPG
Here you can see the damaged part
http://barbared.iespana.es/HDD2.JPG
This one you can see the little hole in the component
I am thinking in buying another drive so I can swap PCBs. I read the other New regarding the issue, however, I do not know if that component is the same "suppressor" you are talking about there. And the fact that the drive has the ROM inside the shell... I hope does not apply
Any help would be greatly apprecciated.
The picture links didn't work for me. In general, if the part that burned only has 2 leads, and is near the power connector, it's likely it's a surge suppressor. If you're handy with a soldering iron, and don't mind risking a years worth of work, you can try replacing it with one from another drive. Of course, the safest thing to do is take it to a professional.
If you decide to do this yourself, take it slow, and ask on here about any questions. For God sake, don't open the drive!
I think, from what I have read in this forums that the damaged part we are talking is the same. I think its called the Voltage Transient suppressor (VTS). Somewhere I read that can be bypassed, but I really dont want to risk the little chip next to it. I had to examine it with a magnifying glass to find it has a clear sign of burn (a hole on the top) and the green coating of the PCB surrounding it looks different that the rest of resistors. Also, I found some numbers written over it (000), that I would love to understand.
I want you people to see the pictures, that server is down, so I am attaching them.
If you people know about the possible causes, I would love to know, so this would not happen again!
It seems to me that it is a fuse or low-ohm resistor that has blown. The cause can be a short circuit in one of the VDR's next to it.
You'd better measure this out before replacing the fuse.
Dobre
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Murphy was an optimist
Can you give me some directions? I have my multimeter at hand.
Do you know the specs of the damaged component? It has three zeros on top. (000)
Is it easy to find in another disk for spare?
The spec for a 000 is a jumper. It's a Zero Ohm resistor. They are sometimes used to jump over a trace, or likely in this instance used as a crude fuse. If you're feeling brave or lucky, you could replace it with a piece of wire, although I'd use thin wire that might act as a fuse. You could also wire up a 2 or 3 Amp car fuse, which will look ugly, but should work, and might be safer.
Also, as Dobre said, check for shorts first.
Thanks for the info, guys.
I checked for shorts as Dobre said, and I did not find anything unusual. I am suspecting seriously about that being a bad PSU (chinese made "delux" brand), since my disk was in my computer for very long without failing. (enermax PSU)
I am handy with a soldering iron, however, I would love to replace the component with another of the same specs, just for mental peace. Do you know if its easy to find? or should I use another from a hard disk?
As for the car fuse solution, it is pretty clever! I would love to have a little more detail into this, since I have seen a lot of types of car fuses. Some in a tubular shape, some in a "H" shape.
It is likely a PS issue. A few years ago, I made a list of great, good, and crap PS brands, and I never even heard of delux. Without a short, the jumper likely wouldn't burn without a PS issue. Getting the exact part from an Electronics supply house will be difficult, as the manufacturer and model number is important, but hard to find on a Surface Mount device. 0 Ohm means just a jumper, but one jumper might handle 2 Amps, and another might handle 20 Amps. By far the easiest way to replace the jumper with a part that looks like the original is with a part from a junk drive. Not all drives have jumpers. Some have real fuses, and most also have TVS devices. As for car fuses, You could really use any physical size fuse, but a small blade type might be easier to mount. What's important is the rating. I'm guessing 2 or 3 amps would do. Too low, and it will blow, too high, and it won't even if it should. Just make sure it's a fast blow. If it makes you feel better, the factory might use a 0 ohm jumper one week, and a real fuse the next. Specifications change based on what's cheap at the moment, and who wins the Engineers-Vs-Bean Counters battle.
Also, based on your desscription, there's a possibility a defective component might not show up as a short, but draw a lot of current when powered. You might be much safer with a real fuse, instead of a Jumper used as a fuse. It will be better to start with a lower value, and move up in value if needed. If this is done wrong, you may smoke the board, and this all becomes harder.
Can you please give me some advice on where am I most likely to check for shorts? I did it and did not find anything.
I am attaching an image of the PSU just for the record...And for people to know...
There may be no shorts. When I mentioned a PS issue, I meant the power supply is likely putting out too high a voltage, which could potentialy damage other components on the board. Hopefully the TVS protected everything (It acts like a short when the voltage is too high, which is probably why the jumper burned). An obvious thing to mention is that you should use a different PS, preferably another computer where you know the PS is good. It's rare, but if you pop a new PS in the case, it might just be bad...
barbaroja wrote:
Can you please give me some advice on where am I most likely to check for shorts? I did it and did not find anything.
I am attaching an image of the PSU just for the record...And for people to know...
Never, ever buy something that says "DELUXE" !!!!
It normally isn't...
Duncan
Due to this specs, what would be the suggested fuse? Still 2 to 3 Amps?
Extracted from Samsung tech service:
Power Requirenents Voltage +12V±10%
Spin-up Current 2,000 mA
Seek 10.6 W
Read/Write 10.0 W
Idle 8.2 W
Standy 0.7 W
Sleep 0.7 W
If the drive draws 10W when its reading, and I put a 3 amp fuse, should it blow?
Whats the best to look for in the specifications of a new psu, to ensure its a good one. Or can it not be found out this way.
I am trying to find the damaged component, but is a hard task. Thats why I am considering the car fuse option.
Personally, I'd start with a 2 amp. If it works for a while and blows, then up it to 3 amps. If a 2 amp, or especially a 3 amp immediately blows, it indicates a problem with the board.
If you want to be real cautious, you could start with a 1 Amp, but it's probably not needed.
If it draws 10W while reading, a 3 Amp fuse shouldn't blow. 10W on the +5 line is 2 Amps.
I checked a Maxtor disk and it has two very similar components marked "0" near the power connector. I am guessing it is the same piece. ¿Am I right? ¿May I use this piece?
You could. '0' and '000' are both used on surface mount parts as 0 Ohm jumpers. Personally, I'd still use a fuse over a jumper to start with. If everything is OK, a jumper would be good if you want to return the drive to service.
rchadwick wrote:
You could. '0' and '000' are both used on surface mount parts as 0 Ohm jumpers. Personally, I'd still use a fuse over a jumper to start with. If everything is OK, a jumper would be good if you want to return the drive to service.
¿Do you know if these jumpers have different specs?
Well, that's the problem. It's purpose is simply to act as a short. It's only visible spec is that it is a 'resistor' with 0 ohms resistance, which is electrically the same as a piece of wire. One model or brand of 0 ohm jumper might burn up at 5 amps, and another at 20. Yet, they are used as a fuse in this case. A fuse is designed to precisely blow at a specific current. I'm guessing jumpers are cheaper than real fuses, which is why they are used. What I'm trying to say is that a 0 ohm jumper is a poor excuse for a fuse. If you want the drive to look the same, and you've finished the recovery, you'll probably be fine with a jumper. If you want to do the safest thing while recovering your data, use a real fuse. If you're thinking the best part to use, no matter what the part or circumstance, would be exactly what the factory used, you would be absolutely wrong.
If you want to be really nutty about it, take one of those 0 ohm jumpers used as a fuse, put it across a variable power supply, and crank up the current until it opens. Then, you'll know what current it's 'rated' for. If you use a lower current fuse, the only danger is that it might blow, and you'll need to replace it. The rest of the PCB will be fine. If you use too high of a fuse, then it could damage the PCB. Again, the problem is the 0 Ohm jumper has no real spec on what current it opens up at. I suppose the Engineers figured it was better than nothing, and it is, but a real fuse is much better.
Again, I'm not sure how to make this any clearer.. The ONLY specification of a 0 ohm jumper is that it's resistance is close to 0 ohms. If you can somehow track down the manufacturer, and the specific model, you might find a datasheet that MIGHT mention how much current it can handle. However, fuses are specifically designed to open up at a specific current, within a specified amount of time, and to do that reliably. A Jumper might open up too slow, or maybe open up, and then short again, or perhaps 2 different jumpers of the same model will open at 3, and at 6 Amps. It wasn't designed to be a fuse. It's like pouring Vodka in your gas tank. It MIGHT run your car, but don't count on it.
barbaroja
Would the 3.3V line worth taking into account? 10.6 W/3.3 V=3.12 A
So would I use a 3.5 A fuse?
You're kidding, right? :)
There's only a +5V and +12v available at the Hard Drive power connector. If I'm not mistaken, the blown 'fuse' is on the +5V line.
Like I said, better to pick too low a fuse, and replace it when it blows, than to put in too high a fuse, and see the board (And your year of work) go up in smoke.
Of course, if you did smoke the board, a good DR company could still recover the data, but it probably wouldn't be a DIY kind of thing anymore. Tell you what... Put a 20 Amp fuse in there instead, and I'll give you a special rate :)
haha thanks so much! your help has been great!!!
I will let you know what happens next.
...and nothing good happened next!
It blowed a 2, 3 and 4 amps fuses.
Do I have any other option yet... before using your service?
Thanks
